Friday, February 26, 2010

What's on tap tonight, tale of two Cinema Paradisos etc

Hi Everybody -- Tonight we hear from Dr. Rubin, who is coming to Sicily, and Rick is going to give his famous presentation on packing. On Thursday or next week we'll discuss the movie, how art and culture shape our experiences of "place," and the "traveler vs. tourist" as discussed in "Lard is Good for You" and "Storming The Beach."
Writers: Continue reading "The Stone Boudoir." Alex and Jenna are scheduled to do the next Italian vignette and we'll continue peer editing the latest blog posts next time we meet.
Refreshments: Tuesday -- Sarah C., Thursday -- Lindsey D.

Some of us saw a different "Cinema Paradiso" last week -- the 173-minute-long director's cut! (I've got a copy, if anyone wants to borrow it.)
The shorter version, which everyone who was in class Thursday saw, is the one that was an international hit -- except you missed the ending, because it was moved to the end of the longer version.
Spoiler alert about the ending of the shorter and longer versions: Both end with the grown Toto watching a moving tribute to romance that Alfredo made by splicing together all of the love scenes he had been forced to snip from the movies shown at Cinema Paradiso.
Longer version spoiler alert: Toto looks for and finds Elena, his long lost love and discovers that she really did try to find him at Cinema Paradiso, before her family whisked her away. Alfredo had discouraged her from contacting Toto. So, thanks to Alfredo, Toto loses the love of his life but becomes a beloved, famous director instead.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Travelwriting event postponed till APRIL 1

See you tonight!

Don't forget

Today:
Brad Tuttle, contributing editor for Budget Travel and blogger for Time.com will talk about "travelwriting and blogging for fun and profit," TODAY, Feb. 25, 4-5:15 p.m. in the Journalism Program office, Bartlett 108. There will be pizza. See you there!

For tonight, everyone read "Lard is Good for You" and "Storming The Beach," and write a 300-500-word piece discussing them in an engaging way. Include a couple of quotes.
Writers: Start reading "The Stone Boudoir." Italian vignette for Tuesday: Alex and Jenna.

Refreshments: Stephanie G.

And keep the Facebook page posts coming!

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

The Great Easter Basket Adventure



When I awoke there was only one thing on my mind, the same thing that had kept me awake, burning away the hours in the night. The anticipation would kill me and the excitement was nearly uncontrollable. Looking back on it I laugh and feel a sense of foolishness for the exhilaration I held just ten to fifteen years ago in the early hours of Easter Sunday.

In my family the yearly five hour car ride filled with three kids, two of whom get car sick, laughing, yelling, complaining, and occasionally making use of the “puke bag,” was just the beginning of my favorite holiday memories. The empty space in my uncle’s large house seemed to evaporate the second my brothers and I busted through the door to join our much quieter single child cousin for a weekend of fun. After pushing through the threshold we ran to the kitchen table knowing there would be four chocolate bunnies patiently waiting for the Grandkids, or “Gold Pieces” as my Grandma would say. After endless hours cooped up in the car my parents didn’t think the “Gold Pieces” seemed too golden so my Grandparents would entertain the children for the night.

When it was time for bed on Saturday I was filled with warm and happy thoughts ready for dreamland, but too giddy with anticipation for the morning’s events. The best part of the weekend lay so close within reach, I could not stop my stirring body. No, I am not talking about the morning’s two hour Easter Mass. It was the hunt for my Easter basket that was so enthralling and at times frustrating that I looked forward to year after year. My Uncle, a meticulous man, and an engineer, was responsible for hiding the Easter baskets. He took the job seriously, showcasing his skills, creating pulley systems, and contraptions to hide baskets in implausible places. This was more than a game to us kids. It was the adventure of the year.

My Uncle explained the rules and told the four anxious kids which rooms or areas were off limits. After some begging usually by my cousin and I, the two youngest of the clan, we were given subtle hints about where we might locate our basket among the many rooms that filled the two-story home. The adults would sip their coffee and slowly follow behind us as we ripped through the house opening doors, bending beneath furniture, and lifting curtains. As our eyes darted back and forth and our hands motored through anything in sight you would have thought we were Nicolas Cage in search of the national treasure. My heart would stampede out of my chest as I raced to find my basket first. Depending on the length of time it took to find the basket my celebratory actions were mixed. If I was the first, there would be a loud shriek mixed with a jumping sort of dance, followed by a run around the room. If I was the last to find my basket, I would immediately slump with a lack of enthusiasm before my lips would part into a slight smile as I gazed through my overflowing basket of goodies.

One year I searched for nearly 45 minutes before I found my basket hidden in the oven. Without the help of my Grandma telling me if I was hot or cold based on the proximity to my basket while searching, I’m sure some years I may have never found it. The challenge was all part of the adventure and although sadly to say it caused a few tears here and there, they were always drowned out with laughter eventually. Easter was filled with competition and family fun, not to mention all kinds of noise, but mainly the yearly Easter basket adventure I will never forget.

You Get What You Pay For

The worst meal I've ever eaten seemed, at the time, to be one of the best.

It was the summer after my freshman year of college, and my best friend from high school and I had planned a three-week road trip around the east coast. Leah and I had drawn up a loose itinerary based on visiting far-flung friends and seeing interesting things, starting with a few days in New York City, before driving as far and as fast as possible in any direction that struck our fancy, and ending up on Martha's Vineyard. We were hoping to end up getting a little taste of the south as well, toying with the ideas of Florida and North Carolina, and we were hoping to do it on a shoestring budget. We'd spent the beginning of the summer working retail jobs (she in a drugstore, me in a bookstore, which in a way describes the difference in our personalities) to afford food and gas, and now, at the beginning of July, it was time to go. In my parents' driveway, we packed Leah's beat-up white sedan with the things we'd need: maps of the east coast, changes of clothes, a tent, a huge bottle of shampoo, our toothbrushes, flashlights, phone chargers, enormous boxes of three kinds of granola and protein bars, potato chips, gummy worms, bottled water, diet Mountain Dew and Dr. Pepper to keep us awake, and Leah's excellent camera. We'd portioned the food into individual servings to last three weeks, budgeting enough money to only buy one meal a day on the road to save money and to force us to choose only restaurants we really thought would capture the essence of the place we were in, meals we could only get that one time. We popped in the first of many CDs burned for the occasion, cranked the music, and set off.

We hit New York a few hours later, having parked the car in the suburb of White Plains and taking the train into the city with backpacks full of provisions and clean clothes. We spent our first meal allotment on incredible pizza from a hole-in-the-wall place by the George Washington Bridge and then spent the night at a friend's nearby apartment. The next morning we left before he got up and headed downtown to explore, munching granola bars on the subway. While walking around Greenwich Village, we found the perfect place to eat our second meal of the trip: before us was a sunny outdoor terrace, with a bright red banner announcing a $6.99 All-You-Can-Eat buffet-style Indian lunch special. It was glorious. Before us was a stunningly laden table full of rice, samosas, four kinds of chutney, three kinds of naan, chana masala, various unlabeled curries, and several other dishes unlabeled and unfamiliar to us. Leah and I loaded our plates, and she made me taste everything first to make sure her delicate vegetarian tummy didn't accidentally ingest any meat. Everything was incredible, the rich spices and cool condiments refreshing against the summer sun beating down upon us as we ate and watched the city mill by. The restaurant staff was beginning to close down the lunch buffet and urged us to finish the entire contents of the buffet table before they had to whisk the dishes away, and we filled ourselves to capacity. After paying and heaving our sated selves out of the restaurant and back on to the street, Leah and I high-fived: a meal well chosen.

Until, a few hours later, on the subway, when I met my doom. Leah and I were headed up to the Bronx with our friend Jackie, to drop our things off at her apartment and explore her neighborhood. The three of us were laughing and joking, and then, mid-giggle, my stomach clenched in incredible pain. My face blanched and I fell silent as my insides began to tangle and jostle themselves into foul designs. "We have to get off the train," I told them. They asked why, and I told them I needed air, I needed to get off the train, just trust me. The doors creaked open at 34th Street, and I ran up the stairs and out of the station. I looked around, trying to make for a Starbucks with a bathroom I could use, but before I could dart off, my body rebelled, and then, like one of the many odd denizens of the streets of New York who are often immortalized in the hilarity of visitors' stories, I vomited on the sidewalk. Forcefully, mightily, painfully, messily. My body began to shake, and Leah, art student that she is, snapped a black and white film photo of me as I sat against the wall of a building in abject misery, before sitting next to me and stroking my hair as Jackie ran to find me a club soda to sip. A cab driver pulled up so his passengers could ask if I needed a ride. A homeless man asked if I was alright. In a blur, I was whisked to the Bronx by Leah and Jackie, leaving terrible projectile deposits in my wake as I made my way between boroughs.

Needless to say, my six-day long bout of food poisoning seriously derailed the trip and irritated my travel companion. I spent the next few days with my head in the toilet, overstaying our welcome at Jackie's as she and Leah went to museums and clubs without me. Finally, Leah dragged me back to the car in White Plains, ignoring my groans of pain and pleas to just go home. We'd lost a lot of time, so heading south was out, and dreams of camping could be kissed goodbye, as I was in no shape to help assemble a tent anywhere. We were headed to Leah's sister's bridal shower in rural Pennsylvania, where I nodded and smiled and tried not to double over. I was no longer a travel companion, but a pukey burden, and it was not until the trip turned toward Massachusetts and the sea that I began to feel better, to get my bearings, and to be able to eat solid food. The trip picked up, and was an incredible experience full of beautiful places, good people, new friends, and the very important lesson of avoiding cheap and questionable restaurants, no matter how enticing their goods.

What's due tonight etc.

Hi Everybody -- Time to start thinking about getting to know the Hartford group we'll be traveling with. Be sure to post a profile of yourself on the Sicily Facebook page by Thursday.
Here's what Jeremiah Patterson, a leader of the Hartford group, says about the post:

We need each of you to log into our Facebook group and spend a moment posting an entry that says something about you to introduce yourself to the others traveling in the group from both UMASS and Hartford Art School. Please complete this written entry this week. You may also post pictures if you want.


In past years, we used to have our students write an actual paper about themselves and they would be distributed on the bus as we met each other for the first time as we drove to the airport for our departure. The students from Hartford would exchange their "What you need to know about me before we get on the bus" papers with the UMASS students, and vice versa. These would be read by everyone so we had a synopsis of our group and the individual students & faculty that were traveling together.


This year, we are requiring you to write about yourself on our Facebook group page with this assignment. Please spend the time needed and tell us about who you are. Feel free to write and edit your entry in Microsoft Word or Apple Pages before posting it, and you may add photos if you want.


Everybody
--Tonight, Rick will be talking about photos on the Big Picture site after the Sicily presentations.

Photographers
-- Discuss Sontag essay and test
Writers
--Jordan and Katie to present Italian vignette
-- Continue peer editing blog posts on a memorable place (We still haven't talked about Jenna's, Sarah C.'s, Manish's and Lindsay P.'s.)
--Peer edit new blog posts. Post them ASAP if you haven't yet!

Refreshment schedule:
Tonight -- Katie C.
Thursday -- Stephanie G.

Monday, February 22, 2010

Jesus & The Egg: Two things I worship on Easter


Unlike my old friend Aristotle, I fully embrace the notion that the Earth encircles the Sun, except for one day. On that much anticipated Sunday every spring, my world revolves around another spherical object.

The Egg. (Cue dramatic music).


Okay I'll admit, a little anticlimactic, but the many traditions that make Easter such an enjoyable holiday for my family encompass the idea of the egg.

It begins the same each year. As I groggily blink my way into consciousness on that morning, it sits patiently on my bedside table, waiting to be discovered. The same woven basket my mother has used since I was child, filled to the brim with treasures. As years go by the contents have slowly evolved from jump ropes and Play Doh to lip balm and Linkin Park CD's, but my enthusiasm never wavers. I'll patiently examine my new gifts, nibbling on a jelly bean or two and feeling a little guilty for biting a bit off my chocolate bunny's ear. (I went through a serious white chocolate phase in middle school, but have since come to my senses). Somewhere in this basket, the purple bag I have been so looking forward to see since January awaits.

Inside the bag, Cadbury Mini Eggs, the most enticing of all confections. Smooth milk chocolate inside a crisp vanilla shell, these pastel colored delights are my absolute favorite part of Easter. Year after year, my sisters and I each receive a jumbo sized bag in our baskets, which despite our best efforts, never lasts more than a week. Upon first bite I instantly materialize into a state of sugary nirvana. Across the hallway, all is quiet, and I know that Julia and Emma too have succumbed to the bliss that is eating Cadbury Mini Eggs. My mother knows not to put out the cereal and milk that morning.


Putting on your Sunday best takes on a whole new meaning on Easter. The church service my family attends becomes a bit of a fashion show, all the girls proudly displaying the latest floral prints and the most vibrant of spring colors. The boys and young men look disgruntled in freshly starched suits. It's enough to get me through the seemingly endless hymns and readings. I need to get back to devouring my purple bag.


The next best part of the day is the grand feast we have at my grandparents' house. As soon as I enter the kitchen the mouthwatering aroma of honey baked ham fills my nostrils. I am greeted by aunts, uncles, and cousins, but we are quickly shooed out by Nina, who looks overwhelmed as she places a basket of rolls on the already crowded table of various dishes and platters. I don't know why she worries, her holiday meals are never less than perfect.

"Do you need some help?" I ask Nina innocently. She already knows my true motive.


"Don't even think about it," she warns me, pointing a serving spoon to a platter on the table. Ah, there they are. My second favorite type of egg, deviled ones. Like Cadbury eggs, I only get to experience these once a year. My grandfather and I will infamously stalk the kitchen every Easter Sunday, looking to sneak a few before the meal begins. Like most grandmothers, mine has eyes in the back of her head and our attempts are rarely successful. Nina always spends the day before Easter piping the boiled egg halves with a mixture of yolk, mustard, and mayo and finishes them off with a sprinkling of paprika. Deviled eggs are a light, fluffy hors d'oeuvre, and I'm never satisfied with just one.

People talk about Thanksgiving food comas. In my family, Easter food comas are even more severe. My uncle Chris retreats to the living room to pass out on the couch, my cousins snoozing in the den, my sisters and I lazily sprawled across the dining room floor. Nina will walk around the house, picking up empty plates and shaking her head at each of us. But I think she secretly takes it as a compliment. Her food is that good.


Later, my cousins enjoy an egg hunt, scrambling around the backyard trying to locate the colored plastic eggs jingling with quarters and in one, a twenty dollar bill for the lucky finder. It has been a day full of simple pleasures, laughter and joking, good food and family. There is something indescribably comforting about tradition. In a world that's always changing, this will always be constant.


After goodbyes to family members who have traveled from out of town and hugs from Nina and Papa, I walk briskly to Mom's car as the sun begins to set, dipping beneath clouds that have taken on the color of sherbet. I allow myself only a moment to appreciate the beauty. After all, there is a half-eaten purple bag at home that has my name all over it.

Butter for Lunch

thumb_butter_nyc.jpg

(c. Google Images)

We’ve traversed the island of Manhattan side to side, from the Union Square subway stop, weaving through the NYU campus, till we find ourselves in the East Village. With the midday sun beating down on the broiling concrete and pavement, dripping with sweat, we try to compose ourselves, toting Century 21 bags with deals we couldn’t resist.


New York Restaurant Week is truly a godsend for foodies on a budget - a twice yearly opportunity to enjoy prix-fixes meals at acclaimed, upscale restaurants where the price would otherwise be prohibitive.


On our two-day jaunt to the City, we choose Butter - a restaurant/nightclub frequented by celebrities and Manhattan’s elite. We don’t see anyone famous - that we recognize anyways - besides the waitresses discussing their auditions for that afternoon.


We have the first reservations of the day, and the staff is still bustling about as we sit in the swanky lounge off the entrance. Downstairs is the club, cool and dimly lit, destined to be bustling this evening. Upstairs is the Great Room, bright and airy with vaulted Cedar ceilings and a faux mural of a Birch forest on the back wall, illuminating the room. I can almost hear the birds chirping.


I frequent the typical suburban chain restaurants: Bertucci’s, Applebee’s, etc. This is my first experience with upper-echelon dining. We are seated at a table for two; there’s a few other groups and couples dining, but the restaurant will fill up fast over the course of our meal.


The bread and butter is artfully arranged, not my usual bread basket. I order a water - soda doesn’t seem classy enough and I’m a few years premature for the wine my mom orders. For an appetizer, I get the grilled, house made organic chicken sausage with Monet lettuce salad and creamy mustard dressing. I expect rabbit food - tiny portions artfully arranged - more of a feast for the eyes than the taste buds. I’m mistaken though; my salad could be a main course. The chicken sausage is delicious, like nothing I’ve ever tasted. My mom orders the soup of the day, about which she’s less than thrilled.


Likewise, her main course of oven-roasted veal breast stuffed with sage, preserved lemon and local greens is disappointing. She’s unhappy with the consistency of the veal, and I gladly cede a portion of my homemade “pizza” tart with house made ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, grilled zucchini and aged balsamic. Again, it’s more than I can possibly eat, though I certainly try. I’m not a fan of zucchini, but the delicious combination of the aged balsamic and cheeses more than makes up for it. All in all, it’s the best “pizza” I’ve ever eaten.


The service is outstanding - my water glass is refilled every time I take a sip. To finish off an incredible meal, my mom and I both order the dark chocolate cake with homemade milk jam and candied hazelnuts. Rich and decadent, it melts in my mouth and is gone all too soon.


I could not fathom coming back and paying full price for this cuisine, yet if another visit to NYC should happen to fall during Restaurant Week, I’ll be making reservations for Butter.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

An Epic Meal


The best meal I’ve ever had wasn’t even really a meal, but should be described more as an gastronomical event. I was twelve when my parents took me to the Cross Street Market in Baltimore, Maryland and spent the better part of an afternoon eating some of the freshest seafood and the greasiest french fries available on the East Coast. Cross Street is an open fish market that is famous for its raw oyster bar.
Walking into the market, you are overwhelmed by the amount of fish and meat products display and offered for sale. In one corridor you could pretty much buy anything ranging from calamari, to hot dogs, to fried chicken livers, to fresh fruit, to birthday cakes. The Cross Street Market offers it's visitors the ultimate dining experience. You can grab a solo cup of beer at the bar and walk through the isles, sampling some fork cookies at one vendor, eating some fresh roasted peanuts at another, ordering prime cuts of meat at butcher booth, or taking home some fresh lobsters, clams, or mussels at the shellfish stand.
But the most popular and prized booth at market is, like I said before, the raw oyster bar in the center of the building. This was the site of the most epic meal I have ever had. Imagine this: a twelve year girl is sat down on a stool at a raw bar on a busy Saturday afternoon. All around her are adults, laughing, toasting their beers to one another, and becoming messier and rowdier as they slurp back live, raw, gelatinous oysters on the half shell.
My father and I start off the meal right. I order a large, sugary sweet coca cola. My father orders a plastic cup full of cheap beer and six oysters on the half shell. I had never even seen an oyster, let alone tried one before that afternoon and the experience was not an easy one. A raw oyster is best compared to, using my father's words, "an elephant snot." They are a sickly gray color and have the consistency of a fleshly hacked lugi. I watched in horror as my father grabbed one of the shells, squeezed some lemon juice from a wedge sitting in a bowl on the bar, splashed on a bit of hot sauce and cocktail sauce, put the shell up to his lips, and with a loud slurping noise, suck the fleshy oyster into his mouth and down his throat.
I was disgusted but fearless. Other customers gathered around me and my father as he lifted another oyster and passed it over to me. The chaotic scene at the bar seemed to stop as everyone around us stopped to watch the twelve year old little girl with pig tails in her hair try and slurp an oyster for the first time. I heard one of the bar tenders whisper that he didn't think I could do it so I held my nose, squeezed my eyes shut, and sucked on the shell as hard as I could. The wet, slimy, oyster sat one my tongue, it slid all around inside my mouth and I could feel my gag reflex kicking in. The crowd made a noise, 'she's not gonna do it!' But I finally got the oyster to slide down my throat. I opened my eyes and looked around. Everyone was clapping for me, as if I had just made everyone, all of these strangers so proud. I smiled and my dad beamed with pride. The day did not end there. I further impressed the crowd when after the oysters I ate crab cakes, fried calamari, fried chicken, french fries, a cheeseburger, fried clams, and a bread bowl filled with clam chowder (I must have been going through a growth spurt because my stomach was bottomless!). People were nudging each other and watching me as a finished plate after plate of freshly made food. That afternoon of food was probably the best meal I've ever had and it's an event my family still talks about today.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Bread-Making Day

She wakes up before the sun rises and turns on the Kitchenaid mixer. The bread-making process starts at about 5:00 am and continues until the late hours of the night. She takes an entire day off from work. And that's how we know Christmas is around the corner. My mom dedicates an entire day solely to making bread.

It's a long process to say the least, but it's one that has some of the most delicious results I've ever tasted. The dough is extremely yeast-y and filled with ground spices like cinnamon, cloves, allspice and nutmeg. Honestly, I've never known exactly what spices go into the bread, because they come to us from my yiayia in a plastic baggie all mixed together without a label in sight. And nobody asks questions, we just know that these are the spices and they do magical things for our beloved bread.

Christmas in my house usually starts with the tree. We have a tradition of going to pick out our Christmas tree the Saturday after Thanksgiving. It's something we've done for a long time, with my two best friends and their families, and we haven't broken the tradition since.

Then come the decorations. My mom puts so many things on the walls and the counters and the tables and the banisters, that by the time she's done, it looks like Santa has thrown up all over the house. And I love it. I love the soft glow that the small white Christmas lights give the house and the way that everything just seems more cheerful.

But despite all the decorations and the tree that sits comfortably in the corner, it never truly feels like Christmas until bread-making day comes.

Once the final loaf is finished baking (which would probably be about the twentieth loaf of the day) my mom is too tired to even make dinner. So we have bread. We eat it fresh out of the oven, still warm, with butter melting into all of the pores in the soft, chewy dough. The sesame seeds on top get gently toasted during the baking process and make the crust a bit nutty in flavor. It's heaven. Heaven and Christmas all in one bite.

But my mom is notorious for being a terrible baker. One summer, we were in Grand Cayman on vacation and my mom decided to make box mix brownies for dessert. When she realized we were out of eggs, she concluded that replacing the eggs with extra vegetable oil would suffice. Well the brownies came out looking like freshly-poured tar, and tasted even more so like it. We tried them anyhow, so she wouldn't feel too bad, but they literally stuck to the crevices in our teeth and really overstayed their welcome.

Still, this bread is one thing she can't mess up. And it actually calls for some real baking. I'm talking yeast, measured ingredients, letting the dough rise, pounding it down, letting it rise again. It's a science...not a box mix. And she never messes it up. So that must be saying something.

She wraps each loaf in plastic wrap and labels each one with a festive sticker to write each recipients name on. Even our mailman gets a loaf of bread for the holidays.

It's this bread that reminds me of the holidays. A simple, peasant's food that makes it the most wonderful time of the year. And even if she replaced the eggs for oil, it'd probably still be delicious.


Thursday, February 18, 2010

What's due tonight etc.

Less than three weeks till Sicily!
Tonight, among other things, we talk about ---- food!
--Sicily presentations continue
--Have read to discuss "Taking Photos" by Sicily class alum Alicia Conway.
Photographers:
--Written commentary on Susan Sontag essay "In Plato's Cave."
--Portraits should be posted on Picasa by now.
Writers:
--Have read and written a response to "Spies in the House of Faith," by Isabel Hilton; "Lard is Good for You," by Alden Jones; "Inside the Hidden Kingdom," by Jessica Maxwell and "Marseille's Moment," by Amy Wilentz.
-- Peer editing of the latest blog posts continues
-- Lindsay P. and Sarah J. present Italian vignette

***Sarah J. is scheduled to bring a snack tonight. Next up is Katie on Tuesday, Feb. 23***

Check out this coming event:

Brad Tuttle, contributing editor for Budget Travel and blogger for Time.com will talk about "travelwriting and blogging for fun and profit," Thursday, Feb. 25 4-5:15 p.m. in the Journalism Program office, Bartlett 108. There will be pizza.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Beyond the Mountains

The horses cut sharp silhouettes in the fog that suffocatingly blanketed the mountainside and filled the valley below like a muggy soup, their heads bent to the grass, their tales slicing through the heavy air. Their hair was rough and visibly coarse in patches, but not from forced contact with bridle or saddle- these creatures would have none. No rope tied the animals to the spot, but the five of them nonetheless remained obediently clustered around Felipe, who slid gracefully from mare to mare, lovingly stroking their manes and crooning strings of disjointed French phrases into their ears. Felipe wore a pair of cut-off jean shorts and a bare chest, a battered Montreal Canadians hat, no shoes, and a crooked smile. When he spoke the words tumbled off his tongue in an odd hybrid of French and Canadian accents and expressions, and were often slurred and abandoned as his chest would swell with delight at his own wit and his deep-bellied chuckle would cut him off.
Brendan, my tousle-haired, blue-eyed cousin of 17, stood behind me, draping himself against my back and letting his chin rest on my shoulder as his eyelids drooped. Not an early riser. My older sister, Erin, stood with her hood pulled over her head and arm linked with my younger cousin, Hope, who, like her brother, sagged tiredly into my sister's supporting frame. We stood in silence and waited as dawn crept upon us, early morning rays illuminating the white crowns of the mountains that lined the horizon, slicing through the fog.
Felipe, watching the new light scatter the murky film that had left us unable to see further than our small clearing, clapped his hands together in delight. "Merveilleux!" he enthused, motioning emphatically for us to scoot towards him and his small herd. "We begin!"
Brendan was the first to have his forearm snagged as he was dragged towards a sturdy-looking mare with broad haunches and a nonchalant demeanor. One by one, Felipe cupped his hand as we placed a foot there, only for him to launch us onto the patiently waiting creatures. Brendan lay draped across his horse's back for a few moments as Felipe attended to the rest of us, before wrapping his arms around the mare's neck and sliding himself forward and pushing his torso upright.
Felipe led me to a gray horse, tall and lean, eyes black and staring but somehow kind. As he hoisted me up, I was careful to settle gently, wrapping my fingers securely into the creature's knotted mane.
None of this took much time at all, and the sun was still struggling to crest the horizon as Felipe clicked his tongue and led us from the clearing. All of our mounts followed obediently.
Soon we would be on our own, free to roam.
We hit a mountain path and, with no warning, Felipe took off, his tough young mare racing along the spongy ground and out of sight into the higher-altitude trees. The others had shaken off their post-slumber drowsiness, and had watched Felipe shove his heels into his mount's sides before the pair took off above the timberline. We all followed suit.
My horse needed no further instruction; I could feel her masses of muscle bunch and stretch beneath me as she flew up the grassy slope, carrying me effortlessly into the short-lived forest and then above the tree line. We broke ahead of the others, but they soon fell into step behind us, gliding along the side of the mountain. The valley unfolded below; verdant groves of lush vegetation, cascading waterfalls of the sharpest blue, the blue of mountain glaciers, the blue of absolute purity. As we rode, the forest woke, and the birds began to climb above the treetops, borne by the crisp, post-dawn breeze, even as the cries and calls of those confined to the ground rose into the air with them.
Without warning, we plunged down an unseen slope, the horses managing to crash gracefully back down the mountainside, tumbling down into the tender foliage. Leaves whipped my face as I flatted against my mare's haunches, and I could hear Brendan shouting something behind me, loudly disgruntled by our change of course. But we soon cleared the trees, emerging into another, larger clearing. Before us unfolded a lake, a glacially-carved bowl filled with water the blue of the sky, as clear as the air flooding our lungs. Another mountain range stood before us, equal to though opposite the other, mirror images of its perfectly reflected earthly counterpart.
But our horses did not hesitate at the water's edge- instead, we plunged forward into the water, which struck my chest like a slab of ice and stabbed into my limbs like a thousand knives. It could have been a hundred thousand degrees, and my shocked body would not have known the difference; I heard my sister and cousins yelp behind me as their horses followed mine's lead. And then I was floating, floating forward into the image of the mountaintops, floating but not of my own volition, resting weightlessly on my mare's back as she carried me into water unpolluted by the civilization that existed now far out of sight and farther out of mind.
As I watched, entranced, as I cut effortlessly through the bitingly cold waters, the far shore came into sight, and with it a recognizable silhouette. There stood Felipe, hand absentmindedly running along his mount's neck, dripping wet and grinning broadly, waving wildly as we approached. Erin, Hope, and Brendan pulled even with me and my horse, their own swimming along as calmly as mine, bearing us all with ease. None of us spoke.
None of us but Felipe, who called out to us as we were brought abruptly back into direct contact with our mares as they hoisted us out of the waters and onto the shore. Then we all slid off the lovely animals that had borne us here, only to crumple as our legs, still in shock, reached the ground. Now towering above us, Felipe swept his hands out before him, and we followed his gaze to look back from where we had come.
A deep-bellied, full-throated laugh bubbled from Felipe, and he asked simply, "Well?"
He paused. "It's something, eh?"
It certainly was something.

Sample short Italian language-learning video

Sushinnoli and Greek cucumber dip = a great night for snacks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-tumpVPhRQ

Planes

I am the only person I know so far who has had this notion as a child: all airplanes are simply toys that really strong people throw, and people who use them to travel have been shrunk using magical tunnels to fit inside and are simply thrown from place to place. You can probably only imagine what was going through my mind when I saw them in the sky, perceptively as small as toys, moving slowly as if magic had slown them down and was keeping them in the air somehow. I always wanted to know what the experience was really like, whether they really were as big as buildings or as loud as explosions, like my parents had always tried to convince me they were.

It was 1:00 AM on the day of my first plane ride. New Dehli International Airport is generally a sea of people doing anything and everything, walking and/or running, selling food, carrying bags, calling out to relatives or rides, the usual. None of this actually registered back then in my relatively uneducated 8-year-old mind, tired and dazed with the faint knowledge that my parents and I would be leaving India, indefinitely. I was half asleep, 1 AM is not a suitable time for a small child to be awake; any concept of time is simply an illusion, everything is surreal almost not happening.

This didn't stop me from staring in awe, mouth ajar, unable to move or compute what my eyes were sending to my brain once we were able to actually get to the terminal. Here was the biggest toy I had ever seen, its nose huge and round, its body as big as a building, its wings as big as... something huge and flat and wing-like! Perhaps the whole terminal was magic, perhaps I was small enough to fit inside now, or perhaps the windows just made the planes look big so that we don't get shocked as the tunnels shrunk us.

Tunnels into which we were soon going; before long we were boarding. I was ready for the magic to shrink me, it was coming, coming, and... nothing happened. This was the point at which I understood that planes were not toys; the tunnels were not magic, no strong person would throw me and my family to America, and everything I saw through the windows was real.

"That's such a big wing," I said to my father as I looked out the window; it was as big as something I could walk on.

"It's the biggest one," he replied, which I would find out later in my life was a false statement, "We'll go in on with even bigger wings later." I couldn't wait, what kind of wings must they have been to be bigger than the biggest wings?

My eyes were glued to that window, I could swear that for the next two hours or so I did not take my eyes off that window. How could I possibly have missed the moving of the wing, the funny noises it made, the loud bang of the engine that hung randomly from the wing as the entire world dropped away from view and my ears popped, the world turning and twisting as clearly the plane was the center of the universe (for at least twelve hours of my life)? It was all so fluid, every event lead to another, which lead to another, and eventually I was a tiny person flying through the air inside a toy, except this time the plane wasn't a toy and I wasn't tiny, it was the world down below with all the small houses and cars and amazing shimmering lights that had turned tiny.

I don't remember when it was exactly that the drone of the engine put me to sleep, or when it was that I decided to wake up. The first thing I saw after my long-awaited nap was that the ground had turned into mush, and that we were moving really slow, and I definitely remember that we accelerated to some insane speed when we took off, so I had to ask.

"Hey Papa [that's what I used to call him], why are we moving so slowly now?" I asked

"We're moving just as fast as we were before, Manish," was his reply. Now I was curious.

"But then why does it look like we're moving so slow?"

"It's because we're so high up, what is fast up here seems to look slow down there," he said, then he added "Those are clouds Manish."

None of it made any sense to me, but the thing that piqued my interest was the fact that those were clouds underneath us. Once again, I had my eyes glued to the window, and this time for the rest of the flight, so I could see us descend into the white abyss of clouds, till the abyss became a ceiling and I could see the ground once again, looking like a giant block city that kept growing bigger and bigger till we finally landed in Amsterdam.

I had rode in a plane, which wasn't a toy; I had been above the clouds; I had escaped India with my parents; and I had seen the world in a way many others would never get to. I was a prince for 12 hours, and my parents were the king and queen. We would soon be going to America to create our empire.

Under the Surface

The cool, gray morning had unfolded itself into a golden day, and I was perched on the back of the catamaran, feeling rather trim, dapper, and expeditious in a smart navy one-piece with tiny white polka dots and a halter top. I had chosen to ignore the facts that my skin was surely scorching already, and that I had absolutely no idea what I was doing. I squinted joyfully across the surface of water so improbably turquoise that it was hard to recognize as part of the same Atlantic whose more northern tongues had lapped darkly at the rocky coasts of the northeastern U.S. and whose chilly bite had nipped my childhood toes. I had left one of my first bastions of real independence (a job! an apartment! a subway to ride! rent to pay!) to come to the Bahamas with my family on a beastly and overwrought cruise ship, the motion, colors, and over-the-top saccharine celebration of which had made me sick, but now, on a smaller, realer boat off the coast of Nassau, I did not need Dramamine for the first time in days.

The catamaran looked like a overinflated child's toy with its yellow paint job and safety nets as it cut through the bay to deeper waters, away from the American chain restaurants and resorts, the British offshore banks, the daiquiri stands, duty-free souvenir shops and tented flea markets, away from the imperialism that littered the shore. My younger sister sipped a juice box given to her by a winsome, grinning member of the crew, and my parents chatted with a knot of friendly, somewhat tipsy, Canadian teachers on vacation as we all buckled and tightened the straps of our slablike orange safety vests. Our guide, Ronald, stood facing us at the tip of the stern, explaining to my family (and the several other families I was trying to ignore) how to stay safe while snorkeling and how to ease our foreign bodies into the Caribbean. The he ignored his own advice, smiled a dazzlingly bright smile, and dove backward off the boat into the ocean. When he surfaced, wetsuit shining, and swam lithely back to us, he flipped himself onto the deck in one smooth motion. The catamaran shuddered to a halt, an anchor dropped, and Ronald helped the group of us ignorant visitors to slide into the ocean, giving us the equipment to believe, briefly, that we could breathe under water.

Ronald had told us the water was cold today, but to my bare arms and legs the sea felt like bathwater, only more refreshing. I flapped my borrowed rubber flippers and scooted my body through the water, away from the cluster of bobbing heads and chests entreating one another and their smaller children to "look at that!" I wanted to look by myself, without all the elbows and knees in the way. I fitted the plastic mouthpiece between my lips and gums and reminded myself not to breathe through my nose. I put my face below the surface, and everything was clear and blue in every direction.

Then suddenly, an entire world shimmered into focus and instantly to life. Fish swarmed and crisscrossed in impossibly choreographed rows and ranks, each type knowing who to follow, where to go. Different schools darted by of different sizes, leaving room between each other as they sped or floated in opposite directions, or the same way at different depths. Large orange-striped fish meshed with groups of tiny silver-blue ones as their caravans made an X and then slid through each other and apart. Where do fish have to go? I released air from my vest so I could submerge myself deeper. The only fish I'd seen before were either dead in a grocery case, trapped in an aquarium or fishbowl, or had been sad brown minnows, which everyone knows are barely fish at all. These fish were so bright, so fast, so effortless, so perfectly crafted for their environment. They were unafraid, but gave me wary and sarcastic glances with their tiny disk-like eyes as they dove, synchronized, deeper into the sea. I tried to dive after them, but I could only flap my flippers and sputter as water filled my snorkel. Snorkel -- what a word! So unlike the ocean.

I couldn't hear anything, just a blissful watery white-noise better than silence, punctuated by my own breathing, which was deep with wonder. It was so peaceful that I tried to think of ways to stay down here forever. I reached out my hand to see if I could touch a passing fish, just lightly: a large bright blue and red one with a roundish flat body, pursed lips, and many fins that trailed behind it. As I looked at it, a strange, pale, lumpy object entered my view. It took a moment of staring at this misshapen thing before I realized it was my own hand. How awful, how puffy, how clumsy and out of place it was! How out of place I was! I pulled my head out of the water, unsure how long I'd been under. My fingers had raisined at the tips, and the currents had pushed me even further from the group of other tourists. I swam back toward them and the catamaran, where I saw people hoisting themselves back up the ladder. I surfaced as I approached the outlying snorkelers (a flipper-kick to the shoulder by a swimming child had startled me), and one of the tanned American fathers called to me with concern, "Hey little girl, where's your family?" I was twenty, and didn't answer, and swam away.

On the catamaran, drying saltily in the wind and the sun, I traded sighting stories with my parents and sister.
Did you see the starfish? We found a baby turtle. Annie saw a seahorse!
We felt good, peaceful, high on a small sense of adventure. Back at the small dock between a market and a bar-and-grill, all of us disembarked. There were winks and smiles and flirts from Ronald and the rest of the crew as they helped us off, and tips were slipped discreetly into their hands. My family split apart from the other families, and went for lunch. My father asked a local woman working in the market where she'd gotten the styrofoam container of incredible-smelling food she was eating. She told us there was a McDonald's, but my father said no, we want what you have. Finally she smiled and gave us directions to a small storefront with a few formica tables and a bulletproof-glassed ordering window. We ordered plates of rice and peas, chicken curry, and red plastic baskets of fresh seafood. I ate conch, taken out of the blue water and out of its famous shell, fried and spiced.

It tasted like the ocean. It was delicious.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Memorable Travel: Morocco


Stuck in the middle of the Sahara Desert with no presence of human existence in sight besides the bare tent community nestled between sand dunes, and suffering from severe stomach pains, I lived to see past the most memorable place of my life.

Last year while studying abroad in Spain I chose to take a group trip to Morocco for Spring Break. This was a unique opportunity that I did not want to pass up despite the numerous warnings I received from multiple sources before departing for the trip. I thought I could handle it. The awful stomach ails that were almost guaranteed to find me, were nothing. The feeling of alienation in an Islamic nation as a young American woman dressed in pants and a T-shirt among a sea of staring men and a few Moroccan women with only their faces revealed in public, was no big deal. Well, this may be an exaggeration but amid the mainly temporary uncomfortable moments, I found a beautiful country and place I would never forget.

After spending a few days touring the city of Marrakech, my group of over 60 students and international study abroad program leaders loaded two buses that journeyed through green rolling hills, past snowcapped mountains, along rushing streams and eventually landed in the Sahara Desert. Our final destination contained two makeshift toilets (mind you over half of us were sick during this part of the trip), and a giant rectangle of interconnected stick and burlap tents plopped in a sandy abyss.

After about an hour of running around in the sand dunes like little kids we were called to the giant white plastic tent where we would have our meals for the next two days. Dinner consisted of couscous and a mysterious looking green chicken-like substance with olives. As the sun escaped into the night and the temperatures dropped a large group of us sat on the sand mound overlooking our little village. Three of the students brought out their guitar, banjo, and harmonica. They serenaded the rest of the group until our eyes drooped. We retreated to our tents where each of us was granted a thin mattress-like rectangle covered with prickly wool blankets to keep out the chill of the night.

I’m not sure how many hours passed before I was awoken by a combination of two things, my body shivering from the extreme drop in temperature during the night and my stomach turning inside out. I laid there trying to wish the cold and ache away, but it was no use. I fumbled to find the opening in the tent and was pleasantly surprised to see the brightest night sky I had ever seen with the stars illuminating the path to the designated “bathroom” which lay approximately 50 feet away.

I returned to my tent and prayed for the awful feeling to leave my body. How could I be sick I thought? I ate the special yogurt and took the recommended pills two weeks before even leaving Spain. I had not even touched the water in Morocco that I was warned against, and used strictly bottled water for everything from brushing my teeth to drinking. Before I knew it I was awoken once again, this time it was from one of the program leaders who was arousing us to watch the sun rise from atop the sand dune. I went to get up and the pain in my stomach went from very uncomfortable to sharp stabbing sensations. I did not want to miss this once in a lifetime chance to see the sun rise in the middle of the vast Sahara Desert so I forced myself up the sand dune. In a matter of minutes the sun peaked up beyond the mounds of sand and slowly rose in the sky. All the shivering students stood hovered together in complete silence gazing at the magical sight. My pain seemed to subside for a moment as I witnessed one of the most tranquil and beautiful experiences of my life.

After taking a variety of pills given to me by my program director I went back and lied down for the better part of the morning unable to stand from the twinge in my stomach. I missed the camel ride to the nearby village which the rest of my group took that day and did not eat for two days. Between the miserable stomach pain that lasted most of the three days in the desert, the shivering cold nights, and hot as Hell days you may not understand why this is my most memorable experience. It must have been the indescribable pure and natural feeling of watching the sun rise and seeing the brightest stars on earth light up the night protected from smog in the harsh yet beautiful desert.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

On The Edge

At 9:00 A.M., I certainly wasn't in the best of moods.

We had been driving for at least two hours now, which meant, if you do the math, I had been up since roughly 6:00. As if that weren't enough, the absence of Dunkin Donuts and Starbucks in Australia combined with sitting stationary in a cramped Toyota on the side where the steering wheel should have been, well, I was pretty delusional.

My father had insisted that we visit Byron Bay, a beachside town in the state of New South Wales in Australia, before I was due to head back to the U.S.

"You're going to love it," he had said as we approached the town center, to which I had nothing to reply besides a loud yawn. He shook his head at my general lack of enthusiasm, but you can't blame a girl who lives for waking up post noon on the weekends.

I wasn't impressed at first sight, it looked like nothing more than a campground by a pond. There's plenty of those in Massachusetts. But as we continued on the bumpy dirt road, the scene began to change and my eyes widened with wonder. It was like going into Narnia, one minute you're in a boring wardrobe and suddenly you find yourself in a breathtaking place. Ok, maybe there's nothing mystical about Byron Bay but it was truly like nothing I had ever seen.

We drove up a massive, winding cliff in my dad's beat up Toyota that seemed to go on into eternity. After what seemed like forever, we were finally able to park and explore. Here we were, the most easterly point of the Australian mainland.

At the peak of this cliff, there was a white, weathered looking lighthouse. All around was vibrant green, an endless abundance of plant life that sloped down the sides of the cliff and intertwined with the small wooden paths created for tourists. On one side of the cliff was what appeared to be a town not too far across the water, and behind it, endless grayish-purple mountains partly obscured by wispy clouds. On the other side, though, was so many brilliant sights my eyes could not seem to absorb it all at once. Mountain goats were making their way up and down the cliff, stopping along the way to munch on grass and gaze at bystanders. The water was a dazzling shade of blue, a dark turquoise not unlike the waters of Capri in Italy. The waves crashed against the dark rocks scattered around the edges of the cliff.

"Look!" my dad pointed out, "Whales!"

There they were, about six of them, dark masses swimming beneath the sparkling surface. I had never seen a whale before. Scrambling to adjust my camera's zoom, I snapped several photos of the gigantic sea creatures.

The rickety wooden path encircled Byron Bay, we walked and walked, stopping now and then to watch scuba divers emerge from the water, looking at the surfers burst into the waves, although I watched that particular sight a little too long for my dad's liking.

As we continued, my dad explained that Byron Bay was part of the erosion caldera of an ancient volcano. It wasn't brilliantly sunny, but the weather was perfect. It was warm without the faintest trace of humidity. Cool breezes occasionally danced across my face. We stopped to get an ice cream, I got strawberry, my dad chocolate.

Our final stop was at a dark wooden sign placed right before a steep drop to the ocean that said "You have reached the most easterly point." Wow, I was standing on the edge of Australia, literally. I looked out into the vast distance and there was nothing but blue, nothing but water and more water. Not even a boat in sight. Far away, there were dark pockets of rainclouds thrown into the whitish hue of the sky. It felt more like standing on the edge of the world. For one blissful moment there was nothing that existed besides me and the ocean, going off into the unknown.

Photo c/o of Google.

Memorable Travel: Maine

Every morning I would wake up the same way. A slight chill would run through my body as a cool, salty breeze would dance over the cotton sheet. I would slowly open my eyes to see a the dark ringlets of my best friend’s hair on the pillow next to mine. Once my eyes were open all of my senses seemed to turn on at once. The gulls screeching outside the window, the faint taste of salt on my tongue, the soft breathing of Lauren in bed next to me, the soft, pale yellow sun peeking it’s way through the bedroom window as its rays navigated their way past the morning fog that rolled in off the harbor. I could hear music playing in the kitchen as my father, ever the early riser, cooked over the stove while we all still lay in bed, rubbing the sleep out of our eyes. I could hear eggs cracking and sizzling on the griddle, could almost taste the fatty bacon cooking in the pan. I smiled knowing I would walk downstairs to a warm cup of coffee and a view of the sailboats bobbing in the harbor.
This time away was so important to all of us. We looked toward this week with growing anticipation. It was the product of months of searching and planning, of hours of packing and driving. When the time came at the end of August eight of us packed ourselves tightly into a caravan of two cars, overflowing with essentials; swimsuits and shorts, food, coolers filled with beer and cocktail fixings, bicycles, shovels, pails, books, anything that we deemed important enough to travel with us up the coast of Maine for our seven day getaway.
Our families had been vacationing together for years. We stayed in dozens of places on the east coast but this year we had found a real treasure. The house, a large renovated farm, sat on three acres of marsh land, just across the dirt path from the wooden docks in the small town of South Bristol. The town was more like a village, populated by oyster farmers and lobster fishermen. It seemed untouched by time, traffic was dictated by the rusty draw bridge which moved up and down, up and down as the boats pulled in to the harbor, lobster traps piled high on their decks. Sailboats floated silently, tethered to the docks with thick ropes, turned green with algae. The lack of tourists, the beautiful, fragrant flower gardens bordering the house in their thick, overgrown beds, the rhythmic sound of the water sloshing against the shells of the boats, the faint ringing of the bell that signaled another up and down motion of the bridge, all of this was heaven. We breathed it all in, soaking up every sound, taste, and smell of this place, desperately trying to create vivid memories so that we could carry them with us for the rest of the year.
The week, which was filled mostly with blissful inaction, came to an end all too soon. Our last night in the house we played bluegrass music over the stereo and laughed as we danced to the fast paced fiddles and banjos that came on over the speakers. Lauren and I walked barefoot down the dirt road to the fish market which sat just across the bridge and picked out the largest lobster we could find, a five pound crustacean that a fisherman handed to us off the back of his boat. They steamed him for us (we didn’t have a pot in the house big enough for him) and gave us a bag of steamed clams for the walk home. The sun was setting in purple hues as we took the familiar path back to the house. We pried the clams out of their shells and popped the warm fleshy meat into our mouths as we talked about how much we would miss this place. The lobster meat was so fresh and savory we didn’t need any butter. We had to crack his claws open with a hammer and we all used our fingers to pick up the meat. At this point there was no need for manners, we were all used to each others habits by now, and we fought for the best parts of the lobster. But there was more than enough to go around. My mother had lit candles for the dinner table and in the dim light we all sat around the table, our bellies full, our minds at ease, all content with life. We had been to Maine many times before this, but never had we felt so at home.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Memorable Travel: Paris, France

My first impressions of Paris were lackluster to say the least. As the bus pulled out of Charles de Gaulle at quarter to seven in the morning, after an overnight flight from Boston, I was disappointed. We passed factories and corporate headquarters, most of whose names I recognized. The landscape could have been the drive into Logan back in Boston.


“Don’t worry,” my classmate Julian reassured us, “This isn’t really France. Just wait.”


Some twenty minutes later, we breathed a collective sigh of relief. The bus pulled off the highway and began winding through real French towns. We oohed and ahed as we passed beautiful houses on tree lined streets, boulangeries and shops, all closed on Sundays.


“I told you so,” Julian smiled as twenty-five high school juniors and seniors pressed their noses up to the bus windows.


We drove through the outskirts of Paris till we came to a winding road up to the fortress-like wall of St. Germain-en-Laye, with Chateau-Neuf at the top. The bus dropped us off at the rotary, where every so often, a car drove through and its passengers gawked at us. We were amazed that we didn’t cause an accident.


My host family was among the last to arrive, greeting me with handshakes and forgoing the awkward air kisses. They told me that they would only speak to me in French, as we drove down winding one-way streets, finally driving up onto the curb and parking, a French practice that I never quite got used to. They pointed out their flat, the top story of a five-story building. We loaded the seven of us and my luggage into a small rickety elevator that opened right into their apartment. It was small, simple, and French, with bookcases everywhere, lining every wall, even in the bathroom.


While the rest of the family fixed lunch, my host mother took me on a walking tour of the neighborhood. Exhausted and jet-lagged, I tried to soak it all in as I trudged after her. The shopping center was closed, and there wasn’t a person or car in sight - it would be different tomorrow, she told me, I would see on the way to school. Our last stop was a boulangerie; I would soon learn that you’ve never had bread until you’ve had fresh French bread. She ordered as I gazed around, practicing my French by reading each and every sign. When she stepped aside to pay, the cashier motioned for me to place my order. I shook my head and stepped to the side. “American,” my host mother explained. The man and the people behind us in line chuckled.



Lunch was an ordeal. They brought out course after course - steak, green beans, cheese, salad, desert, and bread - lots of bread. I didn’t have the heart to tell them that serving me wine while I was jet-lagged and sleep-deprived was probably not the best idea.


In the afternoon, we drove to Versailles, where we toured the gardens and buildings - the palace itself I would visit later in the week. I moved robotically, trekking for what must have been miles around the grounds. The beauty and the novelty of my first trip overseas were nearly lost on me as I longed for sleep.



My French had flowed beautifully, like I’d never heard it before, with the wine, but I learned that in general, the quality of my French was inversely proportional to how tired I was. As the day dragged on, the expanse of my vocabulary was reduced to “oui”, “non”, and “merci beaucoup”. I fell into bed that night, with the Eiffel Tower twinkling outside my window, and promises of Paris in the morning.

Memorable Travel: Crete, Greece

There were 16 of us sleeping in my great grandfather's village house in the mountains. It was surrounded by olive trees, animals, and the constant screeching, strangely relaxing sound of the cicadas in the distance. And it was 116 degrees outside. And the well dried up...

The next day after our family field trip to the beach we had two choices in terms of de-sanding and de-salting. Choice one: bathe in the stream at the bottom of the mountain. Choice two: don't. So it was unanimous. All sixteen of us got out out of the cars and walked over to the banks of one of the most crystal clear streams I've ever seen, towels and shampoo in hand.

My uncles found a piece of PVC pipe, remnants from the flood that had ripped through the village months earlier. They stuck it into a high point in between two rocks in the stream and created a make-shift shower head for everyone to sit under. My hair has never been as shiny as it was then. So there we were, eight kids, eight adults, all in bathing suits, sitting in the stream with our heads tilted back under the PVC fountain, rinsing out the shampoo and getting the sand off our Mediterranean sun-tanned skin.

For villagers passing by, it was a sight to see.

For us, it was an experience we'll never forget.

My Uncle John decided to pretend he had a genie that he was able to communicate with that would grant wishes and sometimes do chores for him. This communication had been going on all week, but now he was ready for the prank to end all others. With his thick Greek accent, the summoning of the genie sounded like, "My zenie, my zenie, my zenie, come wash my shoes!"

But that day in the stream, with no shoes in sight, my uncle had other plans in mind. The next thing we knew, after we'd all finished "showering," we looked down the stream to see him sitting on what seemed like a rock. Then the usual, "my zenie, my zenie, my zenie," (in Greek there's no "j" sound) came out of his mouth, followed by, "watermelon, watermelon," and he started chanting something we couldn't understand.

The next thing we knew he was falling backwards in the stream and a gigantic watermelon popped out of the water from under his feet. And at the time, we were too young and too dumbfounded to even think about how it got there and whether the "zenie" was real or not.

So there we sat, bodies cleaned in the bubbling stream, hair glistening in the setting sunlight, and juice from the zenie's watermelon dripping down our chins. We didn't care how it got there, but we were certainly happy it did.
Picture of Elafonisi, the beach we were returning from: http://paleohora-holidays.gr

Sunday, February 7, 2010

What's next

Sicily presentations continue...
Everybody: Read to discuss recommended blog post "No More Sunsets, Avoiding Cliched Travel Photography."
Photographers: portraits; quizzes, famous photographers assignment
Writers: 1) Read Chapters 3, "This Teeming Arc" and 4 "The Toughest Trucker in the World," and write a couple of paragraphs on each in which you ENGAGE with the writing/story, quote a favorite passage and analyze why it works. 2) Scan the travel magazine we passed out in class, pick an article you'd like to call to our attention and explain why. 3) Blog post due Thursday on a most memorable place and 4) Bring in an Italian phrase (see some below from Linguanaut.com) for us to practice!
you speak (English/ Italian)?Parli (inglese/italiano)?/ Parla (inglese/italiano)? (polite)
Just a little.Solo un po'.
What's your name?Quale è il suo nome?
My name is ...Mi chiamo ...
Mr.../ Mrs.…/ Miss…Signor …/ Signora …(usually for both Mrs. & Ms)
Nice to meet you!è un piacere conoscerti!/ è un piacere conoscerla (polite)
You're very kind!Sei molto gentile!/ lei è molto gentile (polite)
Where are you from?Di dove sei?/ Di dove è? (polite)
I'm from (the U.S/ Italy)Sono (statunitense, italiano).
I'm (American)Sono americano.
Where do you live?Dove vivi?/ Dove vive? (polite)
I live in (the U.S/ Italy)Vivo (negli stati uniti / in Italia)
Did you like it here?ti piace qui?
Italy is a wonderful countryL'italia è un paese meraviglioso.
What do you do for a living?cosa fai per vivere?
I work as a (translator/ businessman)Lavoro come (traduttore/ uomo d'affari)
I like ItalianMi piace l'italiano.
I've been learning Italian for 1 monthimparo l'italiano da un mese.
Oh! That's good!Grande!
How old are you?Quanti anni hai?
I'm (twenty, thirty...) years old.Ho (venti, trenta …) anni.
I have to goDevo andare
I will be right back!Torno subito!