Thursday, April 22, 2010

if only's


I'm standing alone on the edge of a jetty in the middle of the Aeolian Sea, watching French tourists enjoying the sea, oblivious to the town behind them. Out of the ocean rises a bed of sand, quickly cut off by a rock wall and then the town of Cefalu, which is surrounding and winding up the mountain that peeks over the rooftops. To my left is defiantly shining through the white clouds despite the looming black thunder clouds to my right. Like the sun, the French students on the shore seem unaware of the dark clouds heading their way. I breathe deeply, trying to soak up as much of the sun and the salted air as I can. And as I turn to head back, I begin to think in "if only's..."

Monday, April 19, 2010

Favorite Pictures

This picture was coming down from Erice. I like this because it makes me feel small.
I love this random Scooby-Doo picture we took on the way down to the islands in Taormina because it sums up our time in Sicily: a bunch of strangers forced together in a foreign place but coming out as great friends, with tons of new experiences and adventures that never would have happened with out this opportunity. Just like the gang in Scooby Doo- good friends going on adventures!

Why I Travel

I have a travel bug. Since I was 17 and went to Ireland on a family trip I have been addicted to travel. I am fascinated with discovering other ways and walks of life other than the one that I live. I think the only way I can truly find out who I am is by getting a taste of all the world has to offer so I can take the parts I like best and combine it into one: me.

I don’t think there is any way I could be satisfied without exploration and discovery. There are billions of people to meet, there are millions of foods to eat, and thousands of places to see in the world for me to discover and try.

From the five different countries I have been to I have learned. I have learned about challenge, life, and growth in ways I never would have if I solely lived my life confined in white, suburbia America.

When traveling I am challenged by the cultural barrier. I am forced to learn languages, eat foods, and do customs that are very different, and some may find strange. I enjoy these challenges because it forces me to acquire new skills as well as learn new ways of eating, living, and being.

I learn about life because when traveling I am submerged in a culture not familiar to me and am exposed to new ways of being. When I travel I am forced to walk in someone else’s shoes and appreciate their life instead of judging it.

Being challenged and learning about other peoples lives helps me grow. I grow because I expand my horizons beyond my own life that is put in perspective when I travel and learn that there are so many things to see, people to be and ways of life to experience and combine to thus better my life by having an eclectic appreciation for the world.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010


Gentle shore winds, calming sea waves, laughter and unforgettable smiles. These are the feelings and sounds of the beautiful, Cefalu.

Monday, April 12, 2010

Why I want to Travel

Why do I want to travel? I guess I could respond to this question with all the traditional answers and they would all be true. I want to travel because I want to gain a new perspective on the world, I want to learn about and experience new cultures, I want to expand my knowledge of the world that I live in. All of these are pretty standard answers and all of them apply to my thirst to travel. But I think the most honest answer I can think of right now is that it something that I’ve never done before.
Many members of my family have traveled around the world. My cousin spent a year studying in Spain and Chile, his younger sister traveled around Russia and spent time in Paris, my best friend has been to England, France, and Australia. My father traveled around Europe when he was my age and I grew up listening to him regale stories of his time spent in Italy, Morocco, and Spain. And the result is that I have become extremely jealous. Their vivid descriptions made me long for my own experiences in these new places.
I love my parents and am incredibly grateful for all of the opportunities that they have provided for me. But traveling to far off places is something that we, as a family, have never been able to do. Both finances and my mother’s fear of boats and planes have kept our vacation traveling on a pretty limited scale.
I view, as clique as it might sound, visiting a new country and culture is a step towards better understanding and appreciating yourself and your own home. By having these new experiences and seeing how other people live, you are able to better evaluate your own life and value system. I often hear that traveling is a “life changing experience” and I believe that this can be very true.
Because I’ve never even been off the East Coast I think that I have romanticized the idea of traveling. I imagine that traveling is being deeply immersed in a place and exploring new places and cultures on a very physical, intellectual, and emotional level. On the contrary I’ve always given tourism a more negative connotation. Even though I’d never even been a tourist I always thought there was something tacky about walking around a big city and buying “I Heart...” t-shirts. But honestly, at this point, a new experience is a new experience, whether I’m a traveler or a tourist, and I’m just excited to be going on a new adventure!

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Fish Market

The fish market at Catania! It doesn't get fresher than this.
Blood oranges! A favorite on the trip - we couldn't get enough of them!

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Too Many Reasons for Loving to Travel

When I first began to think about why I love to travel, too many ideas rushed through my mind, with hazy pictures and words mixed together and flashing by at lightening speed. The first thought I could grasp from my travel experience and especially the recent trip to Sicily was the love for meeting new people. Although the language barrier can be tough at times, to say the least, the struggle to find meaning in communication has a power and sense of accomplishment that is rare to find. I also notice that many times when traveling I am overwhelmed by the kindness in people. It has been wonderful to see many negative stereotypes wiped away after experiencing something completely opposite. In the picture below, myself and four or five other girls were walking the streets of Cefalu and this little old man stopped his car, got out, and proceeded to let every one of us get in his car and pose for pictures.






I also love to travel to learn about a new place, culture, and people. While traveling you are constantly learning and adapting to new and different ways. Everything is exciting. There is always an adventure waiting around the corner. Another reason I like to travel which may seem odd at first is, the fact that I am away from home and all of its familiar comforts. I have learned to adapt and make the best out of every situation in a far away place, and many times looking back on them they seem to be the most entertaining and funny stories. Traveling is enlightening and empowering. The picture below (which does not have to do with being enlightened or empowered, but is funny, and was something we needed to adapt too) is the water that came out of our sink after a day of no hot water or heat.


One of the other reasons I really love traveling is seeing the natural beauty in different places around the world. I have seen amazing things traveling that I would have never seen if I did not leave home or even the United States. Below is a picture of a shell a found on the beach just after sunrise, with the water and cliffs in the background.





Why I love Traveling

I took this picture at 6:30 A.M. at our third hotel in Taormina. I really did hate waking up early, but God did I love those views at sunrise. All of our hotels looked over sea water, and every morning the golden orange sun would reflect off the water, making it sparkle in the light. The horizon would turn the most stunning array of colors. In the quiet of these mornings on our balcony, where I could hear nothing but a few birds and feel nothing but a gentle breeze, I felt the most tranquil.


I took this picture at Gangivecchio, one of my favorite places on our trip. The bareness and the muted colors remind me of the simple beauty of it. The abbey was weathered in appearance, but illuminated by lush wildlife and gleaming sunlight. The meal we ate in the cold room, with cobwebs draped from dusty candles, was simple too. Yet, it was delicious, and for me, it outshined our other restaurant experiences in Sicily.



Wednesday, March 31, 2010

UHart Art on the Beach in Cefalu

I'm pretty much obsessed with this picture as most of you already know, but for those of you who haven't seen it/have no clue what it is...

James and a few others from Hartford did this really cool art thing on the beach with driftwood and old sticks, cactus pieces, lemons, etc. They stuck the lemons and cactus pieces onto other the sticks and then stuck the sticks into the sand and I just thought it looked really beautiful against the blue of the water. As the rain started to move in, the light on the beach was kind of eerie and made things look even cooler.

So here it is...my favorite picture from the trip. It just makes me remember how much fun we had doing the simplest things and enjoying each other's company all at the same time.

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Fish dinner in Sferracavallo, near Palermo

Rosa, Sahar and Sarah enjoying our fish dinner consisting of the following courses, most of which are pictured below:
1)sardines in oil 2) sardines wrapped around raisins with bread crumbs 3) rice balls 4) calamari 5)smelts or "macaroni fish" 6) seafood bruschetta 7) smoked tuna 8) shrimp salad 9) fish-balls 10) mussels 11) linguini and little clams 12) risotto 13) seafood penne 14) seafood platter 15) lemon ice and limoncello
Seafood bruschetta
Calamari
Smelts
Shrimp salad
Fish-balls
Mussels
Linguini and little clams
Seafood risotto
Penne with squid, shrimp, wild fennel and parsley
Our waiter suggests a toast.
Seafood platter

Monday, March 29, 2010

Friday, March 26, 2010

Buon giorno!



The first of many beautiful temples in Sicily that we were able to feel, hear and see the past. Ciao Bellos!

Thursday, March 25, 2010

che bello!




The wee hours of the morning in San Vito Lo Capo. The first of the Sicily sunrises, and one of the reasons jet lag hit so hard.

Monday, March 22, 2010

And we're back

Friday, March 12, 2010

And we're off to Sicily!





Program director Rick Newton's famous packing demo -- just a SMALL part of it, that is.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Traveler vs. Tourist

What it means to travel is setting out on an adventure to try new things, expanding outside of your comfort zone and blending in. The last is hard to do when you constantly want to capture your trip through photography and have a constant amazed "tourist" look on your face from the views. But the main goal of separating yourself from the tourist is your willingness to accept the culture that surrounds you and try new things. It is common that as Americans tend to stick out in other countries. But if you want to avoid the stereotype of being the "typical America tourist" then you must take on the role of a traveler.

As kids at one point or other we had dreams to see the world, or at least I did. The experience of the unfamiliar is enthralling in itself. Who wouldn't want to see the world? With that said, I would never want to find myself as the tourist but rather the traveler. I want to experience the unfamiliar to its fullest potential, otherwise what is the point.

THE FOOD! Anywhere you go you have to try the food. A tourist is more concerned with the souvenir cup they get after they finish the drink. A traveler researches the most exquisite cuisine and then goes out and enjoys it. You won't find a traveler at mickey D's for a quick bite to eat. There is no time for McDonalds in a travelers schedule. Rather you will find them stopping by a vendor with the regions version of fast food. Yum.

The best way to travel is take things as they come. Have some kind of plan so you don't stick out like a sore thumb but also be willing to bend the plans. If something interesting comes your way, take the opportunity to explore it. And just because its not on the top 10 things to do in the region, doesn't mean its not worth your attention. Don't be afraid to try new things and take chances. If the idea of being a traveler appeals to you, follow me this way... next stop, Sicily!

Friday, March 5, 2010

Why I Want to Travel

I don’t think I could ever choose one reason for which I enjoy traveling. For me, the experience of visiting a place I’ve never been before combines a whole slew of things into one. It’s being exposed to a new culture, interacting with the locals, indulging in and exploring the cuisine, and even just walking around, taking in everything from the scenery to the scents and sounds of that area.

A change of pace is always something that’s nice to have, especially living life as a college student. Doing the same things, seeing the same people, and just going about the daily grind, trying to get from one week to the next, can be daunting and often times exhausting, nevertheless to realize that you really haven’t done anything special at all.

When you travel it’s completely different. You see something new every day. Your senses are often on overload, but in a good way, not the way you might feel when you’re on public transportation listening to people scream over each other, sitting next to someone who may or may not have showered within the last 72 hours.

No. Travel is a completely unique experience. It’s one of those things that can’t be categorized. You will never be able to say, I am going here and I’m going to do this, this, and this. Because then it becomes tourism not travel. If you don’t allow yourself any time to explore and take everything in and discover new and exciting things, then you are not allowing yourself to travel. You are simply planning out your days and nights, just as you have to in your normal life and you’re constricting yourself to stay on a straight and narrow path. And even if you’re in a new place, this can get boring.

The thing I love most about traveling is taking some time to myself to just think and soak everything in. If I’m somewhere tropical or on a beach somewhere, you can bet that at some point I will wander down the long stretches of soft sand to explore in the pools and under the rocks, searching for the most interesting and majestic sea creatures I can find.

If I’m somewhere like Sicily, a place with such a deep food culture, you can bet just the same that I will be investing a lot of time into exploring the various cuisines, just as I do on the ocean shore, in search of the most delicious, simple, and incredible tastes and smells that the island has to offer.

I think that if you go into a trip with too much of a plan, then things can easily be ruined. I like to go into a travel experience with an open mind, knowing that I’m going to enjoy most, the moments when I can just relax and take things in my own way.

Friday, February 26, 2010

What's on tap tonight, tale of two Cinema Paradisos etc

Hi Everybody -- Tonight we hear from Dr. Rubin, who is coming to Sicily, and Rick is going to give his famous presentation on packing. On Thursday or next week we'll discuss the movie, how art and culture shape our experiences of "place," and the "traveler vs. tourist" as discussed in "Lard is Good for You" and "Storming The Beach."
Writers: Continue reading "The Stone Boudoir." Alex and Jenna are scheduled to do the next Italian vignette and we'll continue peer editing the latest blog posts next time we meet.
Refreshments: Tuesday -- Sarah C., Thursday -- Lindsey D.

Some of us saw a different "Cinema Paradiso" last week -- the 173-minute-long director's cut! (I've got a copy, if anyone wants to borrow it.)
The shorter version, which everyone who was in class Thursday saw, is the one that was an international hit -- except you missed the ending, because it was moved to the end of the longer version.
Spoiler alert about the ending of the shorter and longer versions: Both end with the grown Toto watching a moving tribute to romance that Alfredo made by splicing together all of the love scenes he had been forced to snip from the movies shown at Cinema Paradiso.
Longer version spoiler alert: Toto looks for and finds Elena, his long lost love and discovers that she really did try to find him at Cinema Paradiso, before her family whisked her away. Alfredo had discouraged her from contacting Toto. So, thanks to Alfredo, Toto loses the love of his life but becomes a beloved, famous director instead.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Travelwriting event postponed till APRIL 1

See you tonight!

Don't forget

Today:
Brad Tuttle, contributing editor for Budget Travel and blogger for Time.com will talk about "travelwriting and blogging for fun and profit," TODAY, Feb. 25, 4-5:15 p.m. in the Journalism Program office, Bartlett 108. There will be pizza. See you there!

For tonight, everyone read "Lard is Good for You" and "Storming The Beach," and write a 300-500-word piece discussing them in an engaging way. Include a couple of quotes.
Writers: Start reading "The Stone Boudoir." Italian vignette for Tuesday: Alex and Jenna.

Refreshments: Stephanie G.

And keep the Facebook page posts coming!

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

The Great Easter Basket Adventure



When I awoke there was only one thing on my mind, the same thing that had kept me awake, burning away the hours in the night. The anticipation would kill me and the excitement was nearly uncontrollable. Looking back on it I laugh and feel a sense of foolishness for the exhilaration I held just ten to fifteen years ago in the early hours of Easter Sunday.

In my family the yearly five hour car ride filled with three kids, two of whom get car sick, laughing, yelling, complaining, and occasionally making use of the “puke bag,” was just the beginning of my favorite holiday memories. The empty space in my uncle’s large house seemed to evaporate the second my brothers and I busted through the door to join our much quieter single child cousin for a weekend of fun. After pushing through the threshold we ran to the kitchen table knowing there would be four chocolate bunnies patiently waiting for the Grandkids, or “Gold Pieces” as my Grandma would say. After endless hours cooped up in the car my parents didn’t think the “Gold Pieces” seemed too golden so my Grandparents would entertain the children for the night.

When it was time for bed on Saturday I was filled with warm and happy thoughts ready for dreamland, but too giddy with anticipation for the morning’s events. The best part of the weekend lay so close within reach, I could not stop my stirring body. No, I am not talking about the morning’s two hour Easter Mass. It was the hunt for my Easter basket that was so enthralling and at times frustrating that I looked forward to year after year. My Uncle, a meticulous man, and an engineer, was responsible for hiding the Easter baskets. He took the job seriously, showcasing his skills, creating pulley systems, and contraptions to hide baskets in implausible places. This was more than a game to us kids. It was the adventure of the year.

My Uncle explained the rules and told the four anxious kids which rooms or areas were off limits. After some begging usually by my cousin and I, the two youngest of the clan, we were given subtle hints about where we might locate our basket among the many rooms that filled the two-story home. The adults would sip their coffee and slowly follow behind us as we ripped through the house opening doors, bending beneath furniture, and lifting curtains. As our eyes darted back and forth and our hands motored through anything in sight you would have thought we were Nicolas Cage in search of the national treasure. My heart would stampede out of my chest as I raced to find my basket first. Depending on the length of time it took to find the basket my celebratory actions were mixed. If I was the first, there would be a loud shriek mixed with a jumping sort of dance, followed by a run around the room. If I was the last to find my basket, I would immediately slump with a lack of enthusiasm before my lips would part into a slight smile as I gazed through my overflowing basket of goodies.

One year I searched for nearly 45 minutes before I found my basket hidden in the oven. Without the help of my Grandma telling me if I was hot or cold based on the proximity to my basket while searching, I’m sure some years I may have never found it. The challenge was all part of the adventure and although sadly to say it caused a few tears here and there, they were always drowned out with laughter eventually. Easter was filled with competition and family fun, not to mention all kinds of noise, but mainly the yearly Easter basket adventure I will never forget.

You Get What You Pay For

The worst meal I've ever eaten seemed, at the time, to be one of the best.

It was the summer after my freshman year of college, and my best friend from high school and I had planned a three-week road trip around the east coast. Leah and I had drawn up a loose itinerary based on visiting far-flung friends and seeing interesting things, starting with a few days in New York City, before driving as far and as fast as possible in any direction that struck our fancy, and ending up on Martha's Vineyard. We were hoping to end up getting a little taste of the south as well, toying with the ideas of Florida and North Carolina, and we were hoping to do it on a shoestring budget. We'd spent the beginning of the summer working retail jobs (she in a drugstore, me in a bookstore, which in a way describes the difference in our personalities) to afford food and gas, and now, at the beginning of July, it was time to go. In my parents' driveway, we packed Leah's beat-up white sedan with the things we'd need: maps of the east coast, changes of clothes, a tent, a huge bottle of shampoo, our toothbrushes, flashlights, phone chargers, enormous boxes of three kinds of granola and protein bars, potato chips, gummy worms, bottled water, diet Mountain Dew and Dr. Pepper to keep us awake, and Leah's excellent camera. We'd portioned the food into individual servings to last three weeks, budgeting enough money to only buy one meal a day on the road to save money and to force us to choose only restaurants we really thought would capture the essence of the place we were in, meals we could only get that one time. We popped in the first of many CDs burned for the occasion, cranked the music, and set off.

We hit New York a few hours later, having parked the car in the suburb of White Plains and taking the train into the city with backpacks full of provisions and clean clothes. We spent our first meal allotment on incredible pizza from a hole-in-the-wall place by the George Washington Bridge and then spent the night at a friend's nearby apartment. The next morning we left before he got up and headed downtown to explore, munching granola bars on the subway. While walking around Greenwich Village, we found the perfect place to eat our second meal of the trip: before us was a sunny outdoor terrace, with a bright red banner announcing a $6.99 All-You-Can-Eat buffet-style Indian lunch special. It was glorious. Before us was a stunningly laden table full of rice, samosas, four kinds of chutney, three kinds of naan, chana masala, various unlabeled curries, and several other dishes unlabeled and unfamiliar to us. Leah and I loaded our plates, and she made me taste everything first to make sure her delicate vegetarian tummy didn't accidentally ingest any meat. Everything was incredible, the rich spices and cool condiments refreshing against the summer sun beating down upon us as we ate and watched the city mill by. The restaurant staff was beginning to close down the lunch buffet and urged us to finish the entire contents of the buffet table before they had to whisk the dishes away, and we filled ourselves to capacity. After paying and heaving our sated selves out of the restaurant and back on to the street, Leah and I high-fived: a meal well chosen.

Until, a few hours later, on the subway, when I met my doom. Leah and I were headed up to the Bronx with our friend Jackie, to drop our things off at her apartment and explore her neighborhood. The three of us were laughing and joking, and then, mid-giggle, my stomach clenched in incredible pain. My face blanched and I fell silent as my insides began to tangle and jostle themselves into foul designs. "We have to get off the train," I told them. They asked why, and I told them I needed air, I needed to get off the train, just trust me. The doors creaked open at 34th Street, and I ran up the stairs and out of the station. I looked around, trying to make for a Starbucks with a bathroom I could use, but before I could dart off, my body rebelled, and then, like one of the many odd denizens of the streets of New York who are often immortalized in the hilarity of visitors' stories, I vomited on the sidewalk. Forcefully, mightily, painfully, messily. My body began to shake, and Leah, art student that she is, snapped a black and white film photo of me as I sat against the wall of a building in abject misery, before sitting next to me and stroking my hair as Jackie ran to find me a club soda to sip. A cab driver pulled up so his passengers could ask if I needed a ride. A homeless man asked if I was alright. In a blur, I was whisked to the Bronx by Leah and Jackie, leaving terrible projectile deposits in my wake as I made my way between boroughs.

Needless to say, my six-day long bout of food poisoning seriously derailed the trip and irritated my travel companion. I spent the next few days with my head in the toilet, overstaying our welcome at Jackie's as she and Leah went to museums and clubs without me. Finally, Leah dragged me back to the car in White Plains, ignoring my groans of pain and pleas to just go home. We'd lost a lot of time, so heading south was out, and dreams of camping could be kissed goodbye, as I was in no shape to help assemble a tent anywhere. We were headed to Leah's sister's bridal shower in rural Pennsylvania, where I nodded and smiled and tried not to double over. I was no longer a travel companion, but a pukey burden, and it was not until the trip turned toward Massachusetts and the sea that I began to feel better, to get my bearings, and to be able to eat solid food. The trip picked up, and was an incredible experience full of beautiful places, good people, new friends, and the very important lesson of avoiding cheap and questionable restaurants, no matter how enticing their goods.

What's due tonight etc.

Hi Everybody -- Time to start thinking about getting to know the Hartford group we'll be traveling with. Be sure to post a profile of yourself on the Sicily Facebook page by Thursday.
Here's what Jeremiah Patterson, a leader of the Hartford group, says about the post:

We need each of you to log into our Facebook group and spend a moment posting an entry that says something about you to introduce yourself to the others traveling in the group from both UMASS and Hartford Art School. Please complete this written entry this week. You may also post pictures if you want.


In past years, we used to have our students write an actual paper about themselves and they would be distributed on the bus as we met each other for the first time as we drove to the airport for our departure. The students from Hartford would exchange their "What you need to know about me before we get on the bus" papers with the UMASS students, and vice versa. These would be read by everyone so we had a synopsis of our group and the individual students & faculty that were traveling together.


This year, we are requiring you to write about yourself on our Facebook group page with this assignment. Please spend the time needed and tell us about who you are. Feel free to write and edit your entry in Microsoft Word or Apple Pages before posting it, and you may add photos if you want.


Everybody
--Tonight, Rick will be talking about photos on the Big Picture site after the Sicily presentations.

Photographers
-- Discuss Sontag essay and test
Writers
--Jordan and Katie to present Italian vignette
-- Continue peer editing blog posts on a memorable place (We still haven't talked about Jenna's, Sarah C.'s, Manish's and Lindsay P.'s.)
--Peer edit new blog posts. Post them ASAP if you haven't yet!

Refreshment schedule:
Tonight -- Katie C.
Thursday -- Stephanie G.

Monday, February 22, 2010

Jesus & The Egg: Two things I worship on Easter


Unlike my old friend Aristotle, I fully embrace the notion that the Earth encircles the Sun, except for one day. On that much anticipated Sunday every spring, my world revolves around another spherical object.

The Egg. (Cue dramatic music).


Okay I'll admit, a little anticlimactic, but the many traditions that make Easter such an enjoyable holiday for my family encompass the idea of the egg.

It begins the same each year. As I groggily blink my way into consciousness on that morning, it sits patiently on my bedside table, waiting to be discovered. The same woven basket my mother has used since I was child, filled to the brim with treasures. As years go by the contents have slowly evolved from jump ropes and Play Doh to lip balm and Linkin Park CD's, but my enthusiasm never wavers. I'll patiently examine my new gifts, nibbling on a jelly bean or two and feeling a little guilty for biting a bit off my chocolate bunny's ear. (I went through a serious white chocolate phase in middle school, but have since come to my senses). Somewhere in this basket, the purple bag I have been so looking forward to see since January awaits.

Inside the bag, Cadbury Mini Eggs, the most enticing of all confections. Smooth milk chocolate inside a crisp vanilla shell, these pastel colored delights are my absolute favorite part of Easter. Year after year, my sisters and I each receive a jumbo sized bag in our baskets, which despite our best efforts, never lasts more than a week. Upon first bite I instantly materialize into a state of sugary nirvana. Across the hallway, all is quiet, and I know that Julia and Emma too have succumbed to the bliss that is eating Cadbury Mini Eggs. My mother knows not to put out the cereal and milk that morning.


Putting on your Sunday best takes on a whole new meaning on Easter. The church service my family attends becomes a bit of a fashion show, all the girls proudly displaying the latest floral prints and the most vibrant of spring colors. The boys and young men look disgruntled in freshly starched suits. It's enough to get me through the seemingly endless hymns and readings. I need to get back to devouring my purple bag.


The next best part of the day is the grand feast we have at my grandparents' house. As soon as I enter the kitchen the mouthwatering aroma of honey baked ham fills my nostrils. I am greeted by aunts, uncles, and cousins, but we are quickly shooed out by Nina, who looks overwhelmed as she places a basket of rolls on the already crowded table of various dishes and platters. I don't know why she worries, her holiday meals are never less than perfect.

"Do you need some help?" I ask Nina innocently. She already knows my true motive.


"Don't even think about it," she warns me, pointing a serving spoon to a platter on the table. Ah, there they are. My second favorite type of egg, deviled ones. Like Cadbury eggs, I only get to experience these once a year. My grandfather and I will infamously stalk the kitchen every Easter Sunday, looking to sneak a few before the meal begins. Like most grandmothers, mine has eyes in the back of her head and our attempts are rarely successful. Nina always spends the day before Easter piping the boiled egg halves with a mixture of yolk, mustard, and mayo and finishes them off with a sprinkling of paprika. Deviled eggs are a light, fluffy hors d'oeuvre, and I'm never satisfied with just one.

People talk about Thanksgiving food comas. In my family, Easter food comas are even more severe. My uncle Chris retreats to the living room to pass out on the couch, my cousins snoozing in the den, my sisters and I lazily sprawled across the dining room floor. Nina will walk around the house, picking up empty plates and shaking her head at each of us. But I think she secretly takes it as a compliment. Her food is that good.


Later, my cousins enjoy an egg hunt, scrambling around the backyard trying to locate the colored plastic eggs jingling with quarters and in one, a twenty dollar bill for the lucky finder. It has been a day full of simple pleasures, laughter and joking, good food and family. There is something indescribably comforting about tradition. In a world that's always changing, this will always be constant.


After goodbyes to family members who have traveled from out of town and hugs from Nina and Papa, I walk briskly to Mom's car as the sun begins to set, dipping beneath clouds that have taken on the color of sherbet. I allow myself only a moment to appreciate the beauty. After all, there is a half-eaten purple bag at home that has my name all over it.

Butter for Lunch

thumb_butter_nyc.jpg

(c. Google Images)

We’ve traversed the island of Manhattan side to side, from the Union Square subway stop, weaving through the NYU campus, till we find ourselves in the East Village. With the midday sun beating down on the broiling concrete and pavement, dripping with sweat, we try to compose ourselves, toting Century 21 bags with deals we couldn’t resist.


New York Restaurant Week is truly a godsend for foodies on a budget - a twice yearly opportunity to enjoy prix-fixes meals at acclaimed, upscale restaurants where the price would otherwise be prohibitive.


On our two-day jaunt to the City, we choose Butter - a restaurant/nightclub frequented by celebrities and Manhattan’s elite. We don’t see anyone famous - that we recognize anyways - besides the waitresses discussing their auditions for that afternoon.


We have the first reservations of the day, and the staff is still bustling about as we sit in the swanky lounge off the entrance. Downstairs is the club, cool and dimly lit, destined to be bustling this evening. Upstairs is the Great Room, bright and airy with vaulted Cedar ceilings and a faux mural of a Birch forest on the back wall, illuminating the room. I can almost hear the birds chirping.


I frequent the typical suburban chain restaurants: Bertucci’s, Applebee’s, etc. This is my first experience with upper-echelon dining. We are seated at a table for two; there’s a few other groups and couples dining, but the restaurant will fill up fast over the course of our meal.


The bread and butter is artfully arranged, not my usual bread basket. I order a water - soda doesn’t seem classy enough and I’m a few years premature for the wine my mom orders. For an appetizer, I get the grilled, house made organic chicken sausage with Monet lettuce salad and creamy mustard dressing. I expect rabbit food - tiny portions artfully arranged - more of a feast for the eyes than the taste buds. I’m mistaken though; my salad could be a main course. The chicken sausage is delicious, like nothing I’ve ever tasted. My mom orders the soup of the day, about which she’s less than thrilled.


Likewise, her main course of oven-roasted veal breast stuffed with sage, preserved lemon and local greens is disappointing. She’s unhappy with the consistency of the veal, and I gladly cede a portion of my homemade “pizza” tart with house made ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, grilled zucchini and aged balsamic. Again, it’s more than I can possibly eat, though I certainly try. I’m not a fan of zucchini, but the delicious combination of the aged balsamic and cheeses more than makes up for it. All in all, it’s the best “pizza” I’ve ever eaten.


The service is outstanding - my water glass is refilled every time I take a sip. To finish off an incredible meal, my mom and I both order the dark chocolate cake with homemade milk jam and candied hazelnuts. Rich and decadent, it melts in my mouth and is gone all too soon.


I could not fathom coming back and paying full price for this cuisine, yet if another visit to NYC should happen to fall during Restaurant Week, I’ll be making reservations for Butter.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

An Epic Meal


The best meal I’ve ever had wasn’t even really a meal, but should be described more as an gastronomical event. I was twelve when my parents took me to the Cross Street Market in Baltimore, Maryland and spent the better part of an afternoon eating some of the freshest seafood and the greasiest french fries available on the East Coast. Cross Street is an open fish market that is famous for its raw oyster bar.
Walking into the market, you are overwhelmed by the amount of fish and meat products display and offered for sale. In one corridor you could pretty much buy anything ranging from calamari, to hot dogs, to fried chicken livers, to fresh fruit, to birthday cakes. The Cross Street Market offers it's visitors the ultimate dining experience. You can grab a solo cup of beer at the bar and walk through the isles, sampling some fork cookies at one vendor, eating some fresh roasted peanuts at another, ordering prime cuts of meat at butcher booth, or taking home some fresh lobsters, clams, or mussels at the shellfish stand.
But the most popular and prized booth at market is, like I said before, the raw oyster bar in the center of the building. This was the site of the most epic meal I have ever had. Imagine this: a twelve year girl is sat down on a stool at a raw bar on a busy Saturday afternoon. All around her are adults, laughing, toasting their beers to one another, and becoming messier and rowdier as they slurp back live, raw, gelatinous oysters on the half shell.
My father and I start off the meal right. I order a large, sugary sweet coca cola. My father orders a plastic cup full of cheap beer and six oysters on the half shell. I had never even seen an oyster, let alone tried one before that afternoon and the experience was not an easy one. A raw oyster is best compared to, using my father's words, "an elephant snot." They are a sickly gray color and have the consistency of a fleshly hacked lugi. I watched in horror as my father grabbed one of the shells, squeezed some lemon juice from a wedge sitting in a bowl on the bar, splashed on a bit of hot sauce and cocktail sauce, put the shell up to his lips, and with a loud slurping noise, suck the fleshy oyster into his mouth and down his throat.
I was disgusted but fearless. Other customers gathered around me and my father as he lifted another oyster and passed it over to me. The chaotic scene at the bar seemed to stop as everyone around us stopped to watch the twelve year old little girl with pig tails in her hair try and slurp an oyster for the first time. I heard one of the bar tenders whisper that he didn't think I could do it so I held my nose, squeezed my eyes shut, and sucked on the shell as hard as I could. The wet, slimy, oyster sat one my tongue, it slid all around inside my mouth and I could feel my gag reflex kicking in. The crowd made a noise, 'she's not gonna do it!' But I finally got the oyster to slide down my throat. I opened my eyes and looked around. Everyone was clapping for me, as if I had just made everyone, all of these strangers so proud. I smiled and my dad beamed with pride. The day did not end there. I further impressed the crowd when after the oysters I ate crab cakes, fried calamari, fried chicken, french fries, a cheeseburger, fried clams, and a bread bowl filled with clam chowder (I must have been going through a growth spurt because my stomach was bottomless!). People were nudging each other and watching me as a finished plate after plate of freshly made food. That afternoon of food was probably the best meal I've ever had and it's an event my family still talks about today.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Bread-Making Day

She wakes up before the sun rises and turns on the Kitchenaid mixer. The bread-making process starts at about 5:00 am and continues until the late hours of the night. She takes an entire day off from work. And that's how we know Christmas is around the corner. My mom dedicates an entire day solely to making bread.

It's a long process to say the least, but it's one that has some of the most delicious results I've ever tasted. The dough is extremely yeast-y and filled with ground spices like cinnamon, cloves, allspice and nutmeg. Honestly, I've never known exactly what spices go into the bread, because they come to us from my yiayia in a plastic baggie all mixed together without a label in sight. And nobody asks questions, we just know that these are the spices and they do magical things for our beloved bread.

Christmas in my house usually starts with the tree. We have a tradition of going to pick out our Christmas tree the Saturday after Thanksgiving. It's something we've done for a long time, with my two best friends and their families, and we haven't broken the tradition since.

Then come the decorations. My mom puts so many things on the walls and the counters and the tables and the banisters, that by the time she's done, it looks like Santa has thrown up all over the house. And I love it. I love the soft glow that the small white Christmas lights give the house and the way that everything just seems more cheerful.

But despite all the decorations and the tree that sits comfortably in the corner, it never truly feels like Christmas until bread-making day comes.

Once the final loaf is finished baking (which would probably be about the twentieth loaf of the day) my mom is too tired to even make dinner. So we have bread. We eat it fresh out of the oven, still warm, with butter melting into all of the pores in the soft, chewy dough. The sesame seeds on top get gently toasted during the baking process and make the crust a bit nutty in flavor. It's heaven. Heaven and Christmas all in one bite.

But my mom is notorious for being a terrible baker. One summer, we were in Grand Cayman on vacation and my mom decided to make box mix brownies for dessert. When she realized we were out of eggs, she concluded that replacing the eggs with extra vegetable oil would suffice. Well the brownies came out looking like freshly-poured tar, and tasted even more so like it. We tried them anyhow, so she wouldn't feel too bad, but they literally stuck to the crevices in our teeth and really overstayed their welcome.

Still, this bread is one thing she can't mess up. And it actually calls for some real baking. I'm talking yeast, measured ingredients, letting the dough rise, pounding it down, letting it rise again. It's a science...not a box mix. And she never messes it up. So that must be saying something.

She wraps each loaf in plastic wrap and labels each one with a festive sticker to write each recipients name on. Even our mailman gets a loaf of bread for the holidays.

It's this bread that reminds me of the holidays. A simple, peasant's food that makes it the most wonderful time of the year. And even if she replaced the eggs for oil, it'd probably still be delicious.


Thursday, February 18, 2010

What's due tonight etc.

Less than three weeks till Sicily!
Tonight, among other things, we talk about ---- food!
--Sicily presentations continue
--Have read to discuss "Taking Photos" by Sicily class alum Alicia Conway.
Photographers:
--Written commentary on Susan Sontag essay "In Plato's Cave."
--Portraits should be posted on Picasa by now.
Writers:
--Have read and written a response to "Spies in the House of Faith," by Isabel Hilton; "Lard is Good for You," by Alden Jones; "Inside the Hidden Kingdom," by Jessica Maxwell and "Marseille's Moment," by Amy Wilentz.
-- Peer editing of the latest blog posts continues
-- Lindsay P. and Sarah J. present Italian vignette

***Sarah J. is scheduled to bring a snack tonight. Next up is Katie on Tuesday, Feb. 23***

Check out this coming event:

Brad Tuttle, contributing editor for Budget Travel and blogger for Time.com will talk about "travelwriting and blogging for fun and profit," Thursday, Feb. 25 4-5:15 p.m. in the Journalism Program office, Bartlett 108. There will be pizza.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Beyond the Mountains

The horses cut sharp silhouettes in the fog that suffocatingly blanketed the mountainside and filled the valley below like a muggy soup, their heads bent to the grass, their tales slicing through the heavy air. Their hair was rough and visibly coarse in patches, but not from forced contact with bridle or saddle- these creatures would have none. No rope tied the animals to the spot, but the five of them nonetheless remained obediently clustered around Felipe, who slid gracefully from mare to mare, lovingly stroking their manes and crooning strings of disjointed French phrases into their ears. Felipe wore a pair of cut-off jean shorts and a bare chest, a battered Montreal Canadians hat, no shoes, and a crooked smile. When he spoke the words tumbled off his tongue in an odd hybrid of French and Canadian accents and expressions, and were often slurred and abandoned as his chest would swell with delight at his own wit and his deep-bellied chuckle would cut him off.
Brendan, my tousle-haired, blue-eyed cousin of 17, stood behind me, draping himself against my back and letting his chin rest on my shoulder as his eyelids drooped. Not an early riser. My older sister, Erin, stood with her hood pulled over her head and arm linked with my younger cousin, Hope, who, like her brother, sagged tiredly into my sister's supporting frame. We stood in silence and waited as dawn crept upon us, early morning rays illuminating the white crowns of the mountains that lined the horizon, slicing through the fog.
Felipe, watching the new light scatter the murky film that had left us unable to see further than our small clearing, clapped his hands together in delight. "Merveilleux!" he enthused, motioning emphatically for us to scoot towards him and his small herd. "We begin!"
Brendan was the first to have his forearm snagged as he was dragged towards a sturdy-looking mare with broad haunches and a nonchalant demeanor. One by one, Felipe cupped his hand as we placed a foot there, only for him to launch us onto the patiently waiting creatures. Brendan lay draped across his horse's back for a few moments as Felipe attended to the rest of us, before wrapping his arms around the mare's neck and sliding himself forward and pushing his torso upright.
Felipe led me to a gray horse, tall and lean, eyes black and staring but somehow kind. As he hoisted me up, I was careful to settle gently, wrapping my fingers securely into the creature's knotted mane.
None of this took much time at all, and the sun was still struggling to crest the horizon as Felipe clicked his tongue and led us from the clearing. All of our mounts followed obediently.
Soon we would be on our own, free to roam.
We hit a mountain path and, with no warning, Felipe took off, his tough young mare racing along the spongy ground and out of sight into the higher-altitude trees. The others had shaken off their post-slumber drowsiness, and had watched Felipe shove his heels into his mount's sides before the pair took off above the timberline. We all followed suit.
My horse needed no further instruction; I could feel her masses of muscle bunch and stretch beneath me as she flew up the grassy slope, carrying me effortlessly into the short-lived forest and then above the tree line. We broke ahead of the others, but they soon fell into step behind us, gliding along the side of the mountain. The valley unfolded below; verdant groves of lush vegetation, cascading waterfalls of the sharpest blue, the blue of mountain glaciers, the blue of absolute purity. As we rode, the forest woke, and the birds began to climb above the treetops, borne by the crisp, post-dawn breeze, even as the cries and calls of those confined to the ground rose into the air with them.
Without warning, we plunged down an unseen slope, the horses managing to crash gracefully back down the mountainside, tumbling down into the tender foliage. Leaves whipped my face as I flatted against my mare's haunches, and I could hear Brendan shouting something behind me, loudly disgruntled by our change of course. But we soon cleared the trees, emerging into another, larger clearing. Before us unfolded a lake, a glacially-carved bowl filled with water the blue of the sky, as clear as the air flooding our lungs. Another mountain range stood before us, equal to though opposite the other, mirror images of its perfectly reflected earthly counterpart.
But our horses did not hesitate at the water's edge- instead, we plunged forward into the water, which struck my chest like a slab of ice and stabbed into my limbs like a thousand knives. It could have been a hundred thousand degrees, and my shocked body would not have known the difference; I heard my sister and cousins yelp behind me as their horses followed mine's lead. And then I was floating, floating forward into the image of the mountaintops, floating but not of my own volition, resting weightlessly on my mare's back as she carried me into water unpolluted by the civilization that existed now far out of sight and farther out of mind.
As I watched, entranced, as I cut effortlessly through the bitingly cold waters, the far shore came into sight, and with it a recognizable silhouette. There stood Felipe, hand absentmindedly running along his mount's neck, dripping wet and grinning broadly, waving wildly as we approached. Erin, Hope, and Brendan pulled even with me and my horse, their own swimming along as calmly as mine, bearing us all with ease. None of us spoke.
None of us but Felipe, who called out to us as we were brought abruptly back into direct contact with our mares as they hoisted us out of the waters and onto the shore. Then we all slid off the lovely animals that had borne us here, only to crumple as our legs, still in shock, reached the ground. Now towering above us, Felipe swept his hands out before him, and we followed his gaze to look back from where we had come.
A deep-bellied, full-throated laugh bubbled from Felipe, and he asked simply, "Well?"
He paused. "It's something, eh?"
It certainly was something.

Sample short Italian language-learning video

Sushinnoli and Greek cucumber dip = a great night for snacks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-tumpVPhRQ

Planes

I am the only person I know so far who has had this notion as a child: all airplanes are simply toys that really strong people throw, and people who use them to travel have been shrunk using magical tunnels to fit inside and are simply thrown from place to place. You can probably only imagine what was going through my mind when I saw them in the sky, perceptively as small as toys, moving slowly as if magic had slown them down and was keeping them in the air somehow. I always wanted to know what the experience was really like, whether they really were as big as buildings or as loud as explosions, like my parents had always tried to convince me they were.

It was 1:00 AM on the day of my first plane ride. New Dehli International Airport is generally a sea of people doing anything and everything, walking and/or running, selling food, carrying bags, calling out to relatives or rides, the usual. None of this actually registered back then in my relatively uneducated 8-year-old mind, tired and dazed with the faint knowledge that my parents and I would be leaving India, indefinitely. I was half asleep, 1 AM is not a suitable time for a small child to be awake; any concept of time is simply an illusion, everything is surreal almost not happening.

This didn't stop me from staring in awe, mouth ajar, unable to move or compute what my eyes were sending to my brain once we were able to actually get to the terminal. Here was the biggest toy I had ever seen, its nose huge and round, its body as big as a building, its wings as big as... something huge and flat and wing-like! Perhaps the whole terminal was magic, perhaps I was small enough to fit inside now, or perhaps the windows just made the planes look big so that we don't get shocked as the tunnels shrunk us.

Tunnels into which we were soon going; before long we were boarding. I was ready for the magic to shrink me, it was coming, coming, and... nothing happened. This was the point at which I understood that planes were not toys; the tunnels were not magic, no strong person would throw me and my family to America, and everything I saw through the windows was real.

"That's such a big wing," I said to my father as I looked out the window; it was as big as something I could walk on.

"It's the biggest one," he replied, which I would find out later in my life was a false statement, "We'll go in on with even bigger wings later." I couldn't wait, what kind of wings must they have been to be bigger than the biggest wings?

My eyes were glued to that window, I could swear that for the next two hours or so I did not take my eyes off that window. How could I possibly have missed the moving of the wing, the funny noises it made, the loud bang of the engine that hung randomly from the wing as the entire world dropped away from view and my ears popped, the world turning and twisting as clearly the plane was the center of the universe (for at least twelve hours of my life)? It was all so fluid, every event lead to another, which lead to another, and eventually I was a tiny person flying through the air inside a toy, except this time the plane wasn't a toy and I wasn't tiny, it was the world down below with all the small houses and cars and amazing shimmering lights that had turned tiny.

I don't remember when it was exactly that the drone of the engine put me to sleep, or when it was that I decided to wake up. The first thing I saw after my long-awaited nap was that the ground had turned into mush, and that we were moving really slow, and I definitely remember that we accelerated to some insane speed when we took off, so I had to ask.

"Hey Papa [that's what I used to call him], why are we moving so slowly now?" I asked

"We're moving just as fast as we were before, Manish," was his reply. Now I was curious.

"But then why does it look like we're moving so slow?"

"It's because we're so high up, what is fast up here seems to look slow down there," he said, then he added "Those are clouds Manish."

None of it made any sense to me, but the thing that piqued my interest was the fact that those were clouds underneath us. Once again, I had my eyes glued to the window, and this time for the rest of the flight, so I could see us descend into the white abyss of clouds, till the abyss became a ceiling and I could see the ground once again, looking like a giant block city that kept growing bigger and bigger till we finally landed in Amsterdam.

I had rode in a plane, which wasn't a toy; I had been above the clouds; I had escaped India with my parents; and I had seen the world in a way many others would never get to. I was a prince for 12 hours, and my parents were the king and queen. We would soon be going to America to create our empire.

Under the Surface

The cool, gray morning had unfolded itself into a golden day, and I was perched on the back of the catamaran, feeling rather trim, dapper, and expeditious in a smart navy one-piece with tiny white polka dots and a halter top. I had chosen to ignore the facts that my skin was surely scorching already, and that I had absolutely no idea what I was doing. I squinted joyfully across the surface of water so improbably turquoise that it was hard to recognize as part of the same Atlantic whose more northern tongues had lapped darkly at the rocky coasts of the northeastern U.S. and whose chilly bite had nipped my childhood toes. I had left one of my first bastions of real independence (a job! an apartment! a subway to ride! rent to pay!) to come to the Bahamas with my family on a beastly and overwrought cruise ship, the motion, colors, and over-the-top saccharine celebration of which had made me sick, but now, on a smaller, realer boat off the coast of Nassau, I did not need Dramamine for the first time in days.

The catamaran looked like a overinflated child's toy with its yellow paint job and safety nets as it cut through the bay to deeper waters, away from the American chain restaurants and resorts, the British offshore banks, the daiquiri stands, duty-free souvenir shops and tented flea markets, away from the imperialism that littered the shore. My younger sister sipped a juice box given to her by a winsome, grinning member of the crew, and my parents chatted with a knot of friendly, somewhat tipsy, Canadian teachers on vacation as we all buckled and tightened the straps of our slablike orange safety vests. Our guide, Ronald, stood facing us at the tip of the stern, explaining to my family (and the several other families I was trying to ignore) how to stay safe while snorkeling and how to ease our foreign bodies into the Caribbean. The he ignored his own advice, smiled a dazzlingly bright smile, and dove backward off the boat into the ocean. When he surfaced, wetsuit shining, and swam lithely back to us, he flipped himself onto the deck in one smooth motion. The catamaran shuddered to a halt, an anchor dropped, and Ronald helped the group of us ignorant visitors to slide into the ocean, giving us the equipment to believe, briefly, that we could breathe under water.

Ronald had told us the water was cold today, but to my bare arms and legs the sea felt like bathwater, only more refreshing. I flapped my borrowed rubber flippers and scooted my body through the water, away from the cluster of bobbing heads and chests entreating one another and their smaller children to "look at that!" I wanted to look by myself, without all the elbows and knees in the way. I fitted the plastic mouthpiece between my lips and gums and reminded myself not to breathe through my nose. I put my face below the surface, and everything was clear and blue in every direction.

Then suddenly, an entire world shimmered into focus and instantly to life. Fish swarmed and crisscrossed in impossibly choreographed rows and ranks, each type knowing who to follow, where to go. Different schools darted by of different sizes, leaving room between each other as they sped or floated in opposite directions, or the same way at different depths. Large orange-striped fish meshed with groups of tiny silver-blue ones as their caravans made an X and then slid through each other and apart. Where do fish have to go? I released air from my vest so I could submerge myself deeper. The only fish I'd seen before were either dead in a grocery case, trapped in an aquarium or fishbowl, or had been sad brown minnows, which everyone knows are barely fish at all. These fish were so bright, so fast, so effortless, so perfectly crafted for their environment. They were unafraid, but gave me wary and sarcastic glances with their tiny disk-like eyes as they dove, synchronized, deeper into the sea. I tried to dive after them, but I could only flap my flippers and sputter as water filled my snorkel. Snorkel -- what a word! So unlike the ocean.

I couldn't hear anything, just a blissful watery white-noise better than silence, punctuated by my own breathing, which was deep with wonder. It was so peaceful that I tried to think of ways to stay down here forever. I reached out my hand to see if I could touch a passing fish, just lightly: a large bright blue and red one with a roundish flat body, pursed lips, and many fins that trailed behind it. As I looked at it, a strange, pale, lumpy object entered my view. It took a moment of staring at this misshapen thing before I realized it was my own hand. How awful, how puffy, how clumsy and out of place it was! How out of place I was! I pulled my head out of the water, unsure how long I'd been under. My fingers had raisined at the tips, and the currents had pushed me even further from the group of other tourists. I swam back toward them and the catamaran, where I saw people hoisting themselves back up the ladder. I surfaced as I approached the outlying snorkelers (a flipper-kick to the shoulder by a swimming child had startled me), and one of the tanned American fathers called to me with concern, "Hey little girl, where's your family?" I was twenty, and didn't answer, and swam away.

On the catamaran, drying saltily in the wind and the sun, I traded sighting stories with my parents and sister.
Did you see the starfish? We found a baby turtle. Annie saw a seahorse!
We felt good, peaceful, high on a small sense of adventure. Back at the small dock between a market and a bar-and-grill, all of us disembarked. There were winks and smiles and flirts from Ronald and the rest of the crew as they helped us off, and tips were slipped discreetly into their hands. My family split apart from the other families, and went for lunch. My father asked a local woman working in the market where she'd gotten the styrofoam container of incredible-smelling food she was eating. She told us there was a McDonald's, but my father said no, we want what you have. Finally she smiled and gave us directions to a small storefront with a few formica tables and a bulletproof-glassed ordering window. We ordered plates of rice and peas, chicken curry, and red plastic baskets of fresh seafood. I ate conch, taken out of the blue water and out of its famous shell, fried and spiced.

It tasted like the ocean. It was delicious.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Memorable Travel: Morocco


Stuck in the middle of the Sahara Desert with no presence of human existence in sight besides the bare tent community nestled between sand dunes, and suffering from severe stomach pains, I lived to see past the most memorable place of my life.

Last year while studying abroad in Spain I chose to take a group trip to Morocco for Spring Break. This was a unique opportunity that I did not want to pass up despite the numerous warnings I received from multiple sources before departing for the trip. I thought I could handle it. The awful stomach ails that were almost guaranteed to find me, were nothing. The feeling of alienation in an Islamic nation as a young American woman dressed in pants and a T-shirt among a sea of staring men and a few Moroccan women with only their faces revealed in public, was no big deal. Well, this may be an exaggeration but amid the mainly temporary uncomfortable moments, I found a beautiful country and place I would never forget.

After spending a few days touring the city of Marrakech, my group of over 60 students and international study abroad program leaders loaded two buses that journeyed through green rolling hills, past snowcapped mountains, along rushing streams and eventually landed in the Sahara Desert. Our final destination contained two makeshift toilets (mind you over half of us were sick during this part of the trip), and a giant rectangle of interconnected stick and burlap tents plopped in a sandy abyss.

After about an hour of running around in the sand dunes like little kids we were called to the giant white plastic tent where we would have our meals for the next two days. Dinner consisted of couscous and a mysterious looking green chicken-like substance with olives. As the sun escaped into the night and the temperatures dropped a large group of us sat on the sand mound overlooking our little village. Three of the students brought out their guitar, banjo, and harmonica. They serenaded the rest of the group until our eyes drooped. We retreated to our tents where each of us was granted a thin mattress-like rectangle covered with prickly wool blankets to keep out the chill of the night.

I’m not sure how many hours passed before I was awoken by a combination of two things, my body shivering from the extreme drop in temperature during the night and my stomach turning inside out. I laid there trying to wish the cold and ache away, but it was no use. I fumbled to find the opening in the tent and was pleasantly surprised to see the brightest night sky I had ever seen with the stars illuminating the path to the designated “bathroom” which lay approximately 50 feet away.

I returned to my tent and prayed for the awful feeling to leave my body. How could I be sick I thought? I ate the special yogurt and took the recommended pills two weeks before even leaving Spain. I had not even touched the water in Morocco that I was warned against, and used strictly bottled water for everything from brushing my teeth to drinking. Before I knew it I was awoken once again, this time it was from one of the program leaders who was arousing us to watch the sun rise from atop the sand dune. I went to get up and the pain in my stomach went from very uncomfortable to sharp stabbing sensations. I did not want to miss this once in a lifetime chance to see the sun rise in the middle of the vast Sahara Desert so I forced myself up the sand dune. In a matter of minutes the sun peaked up beyond the mounds of sand and slowly rose in the sky. All the shivering students stood hovered together in complete silence gazing at the magical sight. My pain seemed to subside for a moment as I witnessed one of the most tranquil and beautiful experiences of my life.

After taking a variety of pills given to me by my program director I went back and lied down for the better part of the morning unable to stand from the twinge in my stomach. I missed the camel ride to the nearby village which the rest of my group took that day and did not eat for two days. Between the miserable stomach pain that lasted most of the three days in the desert, the shivering cold nights, and hot as Hell days you may not understand why this is my most memorable experience. It must have been the indescribable pure and natural feeling of watching the sun rise and seeing the brightest stars on earth light up the night protected from smog in the harsh yet beautiful desert.